Image Honda TRX400EX

Honda TRX400EX Review

 A bit of history

The Honda TRX400EX sure brings back memories – dust flying behind me on trails, weekend trips with friends, and that awesome feeling of riding off-road. For many riders like me, this ATV hits the sweet spot in Honda’s lineup. It’s powerful enough to be fun, reliable enough to count on, and easy enough for most people to handle. It’s got quite a story, building on earlier models while making its own mark in the ATV world.

The TRX400EX comes from the same family as the Honda FourTrax 250R, that powerful two-stroke ATV everyone wanted in the mid-to-late 80s. As rules about pollution got stricter and people started wanting more user-friendly four-stroke engines, Honda changed direction. They brought out the TRX400EX in 1999 as the next step up from the popular TRX300EX, with more power but still keeping that Honda dependability we all love.

The first TRX400EX models ran from 1999 to 2008. They had air-cooled, four-valve, single-cylinder engines, tough five-speed transmissions with reverse, and great suspension for jumps and bumps. The handling was sporty but not scary, and the power was strong but manageable for most riders. It wasn’t the most powerful machine you could buy, but you knew it would start every time and be easy to fix when needed.

Throughout its run, the TRX400EX (and later the TRX400X) stayed pretty much the same under the hood. Unlike some other brands, Honda didn’t make a bunch of different versions or special editions. They stuck to what worked – a solid, reliable, and fun sport ATV that could handle all kinds of terrain and riding styles. This is why it’s still so easy to find parts for them, and why they’re still so popular on the used market. The simple design also made it perfect for those of us who like working on our machines.

 

The Honda TRX400EX – Technical details explained

Let’s break down what actually makes this machine tick.

First off, the engine. Honda went with a pretty straightforward 397cc air-cooled single cylinder with a single overhead cam. Nothing fancy like water cooling here – they kept it simple so there’s less to break and it’s lighter too.

The four-valve head gives it better breathing than the older two-valve designs. This size engine was a sweet spot – bigger than the entry-level 300s but not as intimidating as the big 450s that came later. The engine’s dimensions (85mm bore x 70mm stroke) make it rev pretty quickly and hit a nice mid-range punch that’s perfect for trail riding.

With a 9:1 compression ratio, you can run regular gas without worrying about detonation – something I definitely appreciate when filling up at random backwoods gas stations! For fueling, it’s got a 37mm Keihin carburetor. Yeah, it’s not fuel-injected like newer quads, but honestly, that old carb is dead reliable once you get it jetted right for your elevation.

The electric start is a godsend compared to my buddy’s kick-start-only machine, especially when you stall out on a hill. There’s also a pull-start backup that’s saved my butt a couple times when my battery was dead. The five-speed transmission with reverse is one of my favorite features.

First gear is nice and low for technical stuff, fifth is tall enough for decent speed on straightaways, and having reverse makes getting unstuck way less embarrassing. Power gets to the ground through an O-ring chain that actually lasts pretty long if you keep it lubed.

Now about the suspension – this is where the TRX400EX really shines for me. Up front, you’ve got independent double wishbones with preload-adjustable shocks. I’ve tweaked mine to be a bit stiffer since I’m on the heavier side.

The rear uses Honda’s Pro-Link system with a single shock that you can adjust for both preload and rebound. What this means in real-world riding is that small bumps get soaked up nice and smooth, but it doesn’t bottom out when you hit bigger stuff or land jumps.

You get about 9 inches of travel at both ends, which is plenty for trail riding and the occasional showing off. The brakes are solid too – discs all around with two up front and one in the rear. They stop you reliably even when wet or muddy, unlike those old drum brakes on my first quad that were basically useless in bad conditions.

Tire-wise, Honda went with 22×7-10s up front and 20×10-9s in the back. The slightly taller front end helps with obstacles, while the wider rear tires give you good traction for powering out of corners. I’ve tried a few different tire brands over the years, but the stock size works really well for mixed riding. Size-wise, the TRX400EX hits a nice middle ground.

At about 375 pounds, it’s not a lightweight, but it’s certainly not as heavy as some utility quads. It’s about 71 inches long and 45 inches wide, with almost 10 inches of ground clearance – enough to clear most trail obstacles without scraping.

The 49-inch wheelbase makes it stable at speed but still flickable in the tight stuff. The 2.6-gallon tank isn’t huge, but it’s enough for a good half-day of riding before you need to find gas. I usually get about 45 miles before hitting reserve, depending on how hard I’m riding.

Some other things I really appreciate are the T-shaped seat that lets you move around easily when riding aggressively, the wide handlebars that give you good leverage for steering, and the simple but tough steel frame that’s taken plenty of abuse from me over the years.

The dash is super basic – just tells you when you’re in neutral or reverse – but honestly, you don’t need much more than that when you’re focused on the trail. What makes the TRX400EX so great isn’t any one standout feature – it’s how well everything works together. It’s not the fastest, it’s not the lightest, it’s not the most high-tech, but it’s just so darn balanced and fun to ride. This is the reason these things developed such a following.

Honda TRX400EX – Aftermarket Upgrades

Hey fellow riders! I’ve spent way too much money over the years upgrading my TRX400EX, and I thought I’d share what I’ve learned about the best mods out there. This is basically everything I wish someone had told me before I started throwing parts at my quad.

 

Making That Engine Scream

If you’re looking for more power (and who isn’t?), there are tons of options. I started with a big bore kit that bumped my engine from 397cc to 440cc, and man, what a difference! Wiseco makes a solid kit, but I’ve had buddies run Cylinder Works and JE Pistons with good results too. Expect to spend anywhere from $300-800 depending on quality. Just be warned – installation isn’t for the faint of heart if you’ve never torn into an engine before.

High compression pistons are another good option if you don’t want to go full big bore. They’ll bump your compression from the stock 9:1 up to around 10.5:1 or 11:1, giving you better throttle response and more mid-range punch. Wiseco and JE make good ones in the $150-300 range. Just remember you might need to run premium gas with these.

Probably my favorite engine mod was upgrading the camshaft. Hot Cams Stage 2 transformed how my 400EX runs – it wakes up the mid-range and top-end without sacrificing low-end grunt. Web Camshafts also makes some killer options if you want something more custom. Budget around $200-400 for a good cam, plus maybe another $100-250 if you need upgraded valve springs and retainers (which you probably will).

If you’ve got cash to burn and want serious power, find a shop that does porting and polishing. My buddy had his head work done by GT Thunder and his quad pulls like a freight train now. This mod isn’t cheap though – figure $300-800 depending on how extensive the work is.

 

Exhaust – The Easiest Horsepower You’ll Ever Buy

The stock exhaust on these quads is super restrictive. I started with an FMF slip-on muffler for about $300, which gave me a nice power bump and sounded way better. Later, I went with a full FMF Factory 4.1 RCT system (header pipe and all), and that’s when things got serious. The power difference was night and day, especially when paired with a jetted carb and air filter.

For slip-ons, you can’t go wrong with FMF and Yoshimura. HMF is good too if you want some serious noise (their Penland Pro is LOUD), and Lexx MXe makes decent budget options. Figure $250-500 for a good slip-on.

If you’re ready to go all-in, full systems from FMF, Yoshimura, or Pro Circuit will run you $400-800, but the performance gains are worth every penny. Just don’t forget you’ll need to re-jet your carb when you install these!

 

Suspension – The Upgrade You Didn’t Know You Needed

I rode stock suspension for years before finally upgrading, and honestly, I wish I’d done it sooner. Nothing transforms your riding experience like good suspension.

Fox Podium RC2 shocks were my first big splurge. At around $1500 for the set (front and rear), they weren’t cheap, but the difference was incredible. Suddenly I could hit whoops at speed and not feel like my arms were going to fall off. Elka makes amazing stuff too – their Stage 4 shocks are probably the best out there if you’ve got $2000+ to spend. For those on a tighter budget, Works Performance offers some good options that are still way better than stock.

If you’re really serious about racing or aggressive trail riding, long travel kits from Houser, Lonestar, or Walsh will completely transform your quad. They widen the stance for better stability and give you more suspension travel for soaking up big hits. Just be prepared for the price tag – $1500 to $4000 depending on whether you get shocks included.

One suspension upgrade that’s often overlooked is a good steering stabilizer. GPR and Precision Racing Products make great ones in the $300-700 range. These things are lifesavers when you’re hitting rough terrain at speed – they basically eliminate handlebar slap and keep your arms from getting pumped up so quickly.

 

Fuel Delivery – Making Everything Work Together

If you’re doing any exhaust or engine mods, you’ll need to address the carburetor. The easiest option is just getting a Dynojet or Moose jet kit for $50-100. These let you fine-tune your fuel mixture for your specific mods and riding conditions.

Some hardcore guys swap the entire carburetor for a Keihin FCR or Mikuni TM flatslide. These can run $300-600, but they offer better throttle response and more precise tuning options. Honestly though, the stock carb works fine for most setups if you jet it properly.

 

Breathing Better

A high-flow air filter is one of the cheapest and easiest upgrades you can make. I’ve run both K&N and UNI filters ($50-100), and they both work well. K&N flows a bit better while UNI seems to filter a bit better in dusty conditions. Either way, they’re reusable – just clean and re-oil them when they get dirty.

If you ride in really dusty or muddy conditions, grab an Outerwears pre-filter cover. These are like $20-30 and extend the life of your main filter significantly.

 

Better Brakes = More Fun

The stock brakes on the 400EX aren’t terrible, but there’s definitely room for improvement. Braided steel brake lines from Galfer or Streamline ($100-200) give you a much firmer lever feel and better modulation.

EBC and Galfer also make great brake pads ($30-80 per set) that offer better stopping power and fade resistance than stock. If you’re doing serious downhill riding or you’re a heavier rider, consider oversized rotor kits from Galfer (around $200-400). These give you significantly more stopping power without having to squeeze the lever so hard.

 

Protection and Comfort Stuff

Nerf bars are basically mandatory if you’re doing any aggressive riding. DG, AC Racing, and Pro Armor all make good ones in the $150-400 range. They protect your feet and give you something solid to brace against in corners.

For protecting your quad, grab skid plates and A-arm guards from Ricochet or PRM-ATV ($100-300). Trust me, the first time you slam into a hidden rock and don’t crack your case, you’ll be glad you spent the money.

I swapped my stock handlebars for Renthal Twin Walls ($100) to get a more comfortable bend and better strength. Pro Taper makes good bars too. While you’re at it, fresh grips make a huge difference in comfort for not much money ($15-30).

 

Wheels and Rubber

Tires make a massive difference in how your quad handles, but the “best” ones really depend on where you ride. For desert and hardpack, I love Maxxis Razrs. For mud and soft terrain, ITP Mud Lites are killer. Good tires usually run $75-150 each, and aftermarket wheels can go anywhere from $80-250 per wheel depending on how fancy you want to get.

 

The Extras

If you ride at night, LED headlight upgrades are totally worth it. You can find decent kits online for $50-300 depending on brightness and quality.

Finally, don’t overlook a good graphics kit and seat cover. Factory Effex makes nice graphics kits ($50-150) that can make your quad look brand new again. Seat Concepts covers ($80-150) are not only better looking but often more comfortable and grippier than stock.

Final Thoughts

If you’re wondering where to start, here’s my advice:

1. Exhaust, air filter, and jet kit – best bang for your buck
2. Suspension – transformative but expensive
3. Engine mods – for when you’re ready for serious power

The most expensive route is obviously doing everything at once – a fully built engine with suspension work can easily run $5000+. On the budget end, you can make your 400EX significantly better with just an air filter, jet kit, and slip-on exhaust for under $500.

Just remember that mods need to work together. No point putting a huge cam and big bore kit if your carb can’t fuel it properly, and all that power won’t help much if your suspension can’t put it to the ground effectively.

Hope this helps some of you build the 400EX of your dreams without making all the expensive mistakes I did! Let me know if you have questions about any specific setups.

The Battle of the Sport Quads: How the Honda TRX400EX Stacked Up Against the Competition

Back when the TRX400EX hit the scene in ’99, it really shook things up in the sport quad market. I remember my riding group was suddenly split between die-hard Honda fans and those loyal to the competition. Let me walk you through what the landscape looked like back then and how these machines compared when you actually got them out on the trails.

Yamaha Warrior 350 – The Reliable Underdog

The Warrior was everywhere before the 400EX showed up. It was basically the Toyota Corolla of sport quads – not the flashiest thing out there, but damn if it didn’t just keep running forever. I had a buddy who absolutely refused to upgrade from his Warrior even when everyone else was moving to 400s.

The Warrior had this punchy low-end torque that made it fun to ride, especially for beginners. You could lug that engine down to almost nothing and it would still pull you out of trouble. Plus, they were cheaper than the 400EX by a good margin, which made them popular with the younger crowd just getting into riding.

Where the Warrior fell short was in the suspension department. That solid rear axle was fine for smooth trails and track riding, but hit some whoops or rocky sections and you’d feel every bump. The overall power was noticeably less than the 400EX too – you could definitely tell which was which in a drag race down a fire road.

The Warrior was really the machine for weekend warriors (no pun intended) who wanted something reliable and fun without breaking the bank or scaring themselves with too much power.

The Triple Threat: Suzuki LTZ400, Kawasaki KFX400, and Arctic Cat DVX400

When Suzuki dropped the LTZ400 (and its Kawasaki and Arctic Cat clones), a lot of us 400EX riders got a bit nervous. These machines came out swinging with liquid-cooled, DOHC engines that revved higher and made more power than our air-cooled Hondas. First time I rode my friend’s Z400, I was honestly impressed by how quickly that thing built power up top.

These quads definitely had the edge in the technology department. The engines were more sophisticated and typically put out more horsepower than the 400EX right out of the box. Their suspension components were often a bit better too, especially on later models that came with independent rear suspension.

But there was always that question of long-term reliability. My riding group had a saying: “The Z will beat you there, but the Honda will get you home.” Maybe that wasn’t entirely fair, but we saw more mechanical issues with the liquid-cooled quads during long desert trips than we did with the Hondas. Nothing catastrophic usually, but little things like cooling system problems or more complex maintenance needs.

The Z400 and its siblings appealed to the performance-first crowd who wanted the most advanced tech and were willing to do a bit more maintenance. They were great machines for racers or aggressive trail riders who prioritized performance over absolute bulletproof reliability.

Polaris Scrambler 400 4×2 – The Two-Stroke Wild Child

The Scrambler was definitely the oddball in this group with its two-stroke engine. I only knew a few guys who rode them, but man, those things were rockets in a straight line. That distinctive two-stroke sound and smell brings back memories of following my buddy Dave through the woods, trying to keep up while getting smoked by his exhaust.

The two-stroke power delivery was an acquired taste – it came on like a light switch when you hit the powerband. Fun if you knew what you were doing, terrifying if you didn’t. They were also thirstier on fuel than the four-strokes, and you always had to worry about mixing oil or keeping the oil injection system working properly.

Reliability was another story. The guys I knew with Scramblers seemed to always be working on them. When they ran right, they were amazing, but they seemed more finicky than the Japanese quads. They attracted riders who loved tinkering almost as much as riding and wanted that explosive two-stroke power.

Kawasaki Mojave 250 – The Starter Sport Quad

The Mojave was really in a different class size-wise, but it’s worth mentioning because it was often the machine people compared against when deciding to step up to something like a 400EX. I started on a beat-up old Mojave before getting my 400EX, and the difference was night and day.

The Mojave was light and flickable, which made it fun on tight trails, but it struggled in open terrain where power mattered. It was great for learning the fundamentals of sport riding without getting in over your head. The price point made it attractive for parents buying their kids their first “real” sport quad too.

But honestly, once you rode a 400EX after being on a Mojave, there was no going back. It was like graduating from a bicycle to a motorcycle.

Comparison between Honda TRX400EX vs Yamaha Warrior 350 vs Suzuki LTZ400 vs Kawasaki KFX400 vs Arctic Cat DVX400 vs Kawasaki Mojave 250

Specification	Honda TRX400EX	Yamaha Warrior 350	Suzuki LTZ400	Kawasaki KFX400	Arctic Cat DVX400	Kawasaki Mojave 250
Engine Displacement	397 cc	348 cc	398 cc	398 cc	398 cc	249 cc
Engine Type	Air-cooled, 4-stroke, SOHC	Air-cooled, 4-stroke, SOHC	Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC	Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC	Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC	Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC
Transmission	5-speed manual with reverse for models 2005 – 2008	6-speed manual	5-speed manual with reverse	5-speed manual with reverse	5-speed manual with reverse	5-speed manual with reverse
Final Drive	Chain	Chain	Chain	Chain	Chain	Chain
Starting System	Electric	Electric	Electric	Electric	Electric	Kick
Fuel Capacity	2.6 gal (10 L)	2.4 gal (9.1 L)	2.6 gal (10 L)	2.6 gal (10 L)	2.6 gal (10 L)	2.2 gal (8.3 L)
Dry Weight	375 lbs (170 kg)	397 lbs (180.1 kg)	372 lbs (168.7 kg)	372 lbs (168.7 kg)	372 lbs (168.7 kg)	379 lbs (172 kg)
Seat Height	31.9 in (810 mm)	30.1 in (764.5 mm)	31.9 in (810 mm)	31.9 in (810 mm)	31.9 in (810 mm)	29.7 in (754 mm)
Ground Clearance	4.3 in (110 mm)	4.9 in (124.5 mm)	10.4 in (265 mm)	10.4 in (265 mm)	10.4 in (265 mm)	8.5 in (216 mm)
Front Suspension	Double wish-bone	Dual A-arm	Independent, double A-arm, adjustable	Independent, double A-arm, adjustable	Independent, double A-arm, adjustable	Dual A-arm with twin shocks
Rear Suspension	Swingarm	Swingarm	Linkage-type, adjustable	Linkage-type, adjustable	Linkage-type, adjustable	Swingarm with single shock
Front Brakes	Dual hydraulic disc	Dual hydraulic disc	Dual hydraulic disc	Dual hydraulic disc	Dual hydraulic disc	Dual hydraulic disc
Rear Brakes	Hydraulic disc	Hydraulic disc	Hydraulic disc	Hydraulic disc	Hydraulic disc	Hydraulic disc
Front Tires	AT 22 x 7-10	AT 22 x 7-10	AT 22 x 7-10	AT 22 x 7-10	AT 22 x 7-10	AT 21 x 7-10
Rear Tires	AT 20 x 10-9	AT 22 x 10-9	AT 20 x 10-9	AT 20 x 10-9	AT 20 x 10-9	AT 22 x 10-10
Wheelbase	1999 – 2004: 1,230 mm (48.4 in) 2005 – 2008: 1,217 mm (47.9 in)	47.2 in (1,200 mm)	49 in (1,245 mm)	49 in (1,245 mm)	49 in (1,245 mm)	44.3 in (1,125 mm)

 Why the TRX400EX Stood Out From the Pack

So with all this competition, why did the 400EX develop such a cult following? I think it hit this perfect sweet spot that the others missed.

The 400EX wasn’t the most powerful (that was probably the Z400), it wasn’t the cheapest (that would be the Warrior or Mojave), and it didn’t have the most advanced technology. What it did have was this incredible balance of everything that matters.

The reliability was legendary. That air-cooled engine was so simple that even a mechanical novice like me could work on it. I’ve seen 400EXs with thousands of hard miles that still ran like they were new with just basic maintenance. Try that with a two-stroke Scrambler!

The performance was just right too – enough power to be exciting without being overwhelming. The suspension wasn’t the fanciest out there, but it worked well for both aggressive track riding and all-day trail adventures. You could ride it stock and have a blast, or you could dump thousands into modifications and turn it into a race-ready machine.

Another huge advantage was the aftermarket support. Because so many people bought 400EXs, companies made tons of parts for them. Whatever you wanted to upgrade – engine, suspension, ergonomics – someone made a part for it. I remember flipping through ATV magazines and seeing page after page of 400EX parts while some of the other models had maybe a handful of options.

For me and a lot of riders I know, the 400EX was the sport quad you could buy and never really need anything else. It wasn’t perfect at everything, but it was good enough at everything that mattered. That’s why even today, long after production ended, you still see so many of them on the trails and why clean examples still command decent money on the used market.

The 400EX proved that sometimes being the jack-of-all-trades is better than being the master of one. Honda really nailed the formula with this one, creating what many still consider the gold standard of sport ATVs.

 Honda TRX400EX – Troubleshooting

Problem	Description	Possible Solution(s)
Engine Won’t Start	Engine does not turn over or turns over slowly.	– Check battery voltage (should be 12.5-13V). Charge or replace if low or not holding charge. – Check main fuse (usually near the battery). Replace if blown (typically 15A). – Test starter solenoid (listen for a click when pressing the start button; bypass test). – Test starter motor (if solenoid clicks but engine doesn’t turn over). – Check kill switch is in the “ON” or “RUN” position. – Inspect and clean battery terminals and connections.
Engine Turns Over But Won’t Start	Engine cranks but does not ignite.	– Check for spark at the spark plug. Replace spark plug if fouled or no spark. – Check if the engine is getting fuel. Inspect fuel lines, fuel filter, and fuel pump. – Clean the carburetor (pilot jet, main jet, etc.) if fuel delivery issue is suspected. – Ensure proper air intake; check and clean the air filter. – Consider issues with the ignition system (coil, CDI unit, pulse generator) – may require specialized testing or replacement.
Engine Dies at Idle/Low RPM	Engine starts and runs but stalls when idling or at low throttle.	– Clean the carburetor, especially the idle/pilot jet and air passages. – Adjust the idle speed screw on the carburetor. – Check for air leaks in the intake manifold or carburetor boot. – Ensure proper fuel flow to the carburetor. – Check valve clearances and adjust if necessary (periodic maintenance).
Engine Runs Poorly/Misfires	Engine lacks power, stutters, or backfires.	– Check and replace spark plug. – Clean or rebuild the carburetor. – Inspect and replace the air filter. – Ensure proper fuel delivery. – Check for water or contaminants in the fuel tank; drain and refill with fresh fuel. – Inspect ignition system components (coil, CDI, wiring). – Check valve clearances. – Check exhaust system for blockages.
Battery Not Charging	ATV starts but the battery drains quickly or needs frequent jump-starting.	– Test the battery to ensure it can hold a charge. – Check the charging system: stator, rectifier/regulator. Test voltage output with a multimeter (refer to service manual for specifications). – Inspect wiring and connections in the charging system for damage or corrosion. – Ensure the battery terminals are clean and tight.
Transmission Problems (Shifting Issues)	Difficulty shifting gears, finding neutral, or gears slipping.	– Check and adjust the clutch cable free play. – Ensure the engine idle speed is correctly adjusted (too high can make shifting difficult). – Inspect and lubricate the gear shift linkage.\n- Check engine oil level and condition (use the correct oil type). – Internal transmission issues (bent shift forks, worn gears) may require splitting the engine cases for repair (less common but possible).
Overheating	Engine temperature gets excessively high.	– Check engine oil level and ensure it’s the correct type. – Inspect the cooling system (air-cooled on TRX400EX): ensure cooling fins are clean and unobstructed.\n- Check for any obstructions blocking airflow to the engine. – Verify proper ignition timing (less common cause but possible). – Check for lean fuel mixture (can cause engine to run hot; may require carburetor adjustment).
Brake Problems	Weak or ineffective braking, spongy lever/pedal.	– Check brake fluid level and condition; bleed the brakes to remove air. – Inspect brake pads for wear; replace if worn below the service limit. – Check brake rotors/discs for damage or excessive wear. – Inspect brake calipers for leaks or sticking pistons; rebuild or replace if necessary. – Ensure proper adjustment of the parking brake cable (if applicable).
Suspension Issues	Rough ride, excessive bouncing, poor handling.	– Check tire pressure. – Inspect shock absorbers for leaks or damage; replace if necessary. – Check suspension linkages and bushings for wear or damage; lubricate or replace as needed. – Inspect A-arms and steering components for bends or damage. – Ensure proper wheel alignment (toe-in).
Lights Not Working	Headlights, taillights, or indicator lights do not function.	– Check the specific fuse for the lighting circuit. – Inspect bulbs for burnout; replace if necessary. – Check wiring and connections for damage, loose connections, or corrosion. – Test the light switch for proper function. – Check the voltage regulator (can affect electrical components).

Honda TRX400EX – Q & A

ENGINE & MECHANICAL

CARB & FUEL SYSTEM

SUSPENSION & BRAKES

DRIVETRAIN

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

WHEELS & TIRES

 Honda TRX400EX – Maintenance Schedule

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
ITEM	Type of maintenance -> whichever come first	Hours	Miles
Fuel line	Inspect	200	1200
Throttle operation	Inspect	200	1200
Carburetor choke	Inspect	200	1200
Air cleaner housing	Clean	100	600
Air cleaner housing drain tube	Inspect	100	600
Spark plug	Inspect	100	600
Valve clearance	Inspect	100	600
Engine oil	Replace	100	600
Engine oil filter	Replace	100	600
Engine oil strainer screen in oil tank	Clean	200	1200
Engine idle speed	Inspect	100	600
Drive chain	Inspect – Lubricate	50	300
Drive chain slider	Inspect	100	600
Brake fluid	Inspect	100	600
Brake pads wear	Inspect	200	1200
Brake system	Inspect	100	600
Skid plates, engine guard	Inspect	100	600
Clutch system	Inspect	100	600
Suspension	Inspect	100	600
Spark arrester	Clean	100	600
Nuts, bolts, fasteners	Inspect	200	2000
Wheels/tires	Inspect	100	600
Steering shaft holder bearings	Inspect	200	1200
Steering system	Inspect	200	1200