Honda TRX450S

Covered Models

  • 1998 Honda TRX450S
  • 1999 Honda TRX450S
  • 2000 Honda TRX450S
  • 2001 Honda TRX450S

Honda TRX450S

GENERAL DATA
Producer Honda
Model TRX450S
Year
 1998- 2001
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Image Honda TRX450S

Honda TRX450S Review

Let’s talk about the old Honda TRX450S Foreman. This was Honda’s workhorse quad from the late 90s. Not like the crazy fast TRX450R sport quad that came later – this baby was all about getting stuff done, a real utility ATV!

The Foreman 450S was built tough with a solid rear axle so you could haul and tow without breakin’ stuff. Sure, you could have fun on the trails too, but this machine was made for WORK first.

Honda didn’t change these quads much over the years. Why mess with something that ain’t broke, right? They’d tweak the looks a bit, maybe improve the shocks or squeeze a bit more torque out to the engine, but nothing crazy. Just making a good thing better.

Don’t get the “S” mixed up with the “R” model though! The TRX450R was a whole different animal – it was a race-ready sport quad with independent suspension and a screaming engine. The “S” was part of Honda’s Foreman family – the blue-collar heroes of the ATV world.

The Foreman 450S stuck around for quite a while, which tells you something about how much people liked them. Farmers, hunters, and regular trail riders all loved these quads because they could work hard Monday through Friday and still give you some weekend fun without emptying your wallet at the repair shop. These things were built to last!

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TEHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE
Bore and stroke 90.0×68.0 mm(3.54×2.68 in)
Compression ratio 8.5:1
Displacement 432.6 cm3(26.39 cu−in)
Engine idle speed 1,400±100 r rpm
Spark plug, standard DPR7EA-9 (NGK), X22EPR-U9 (DENSO)
Spark plug gap 0.8 0.9 mm (0.03-0.04 in)
Valve clearance 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
Start Type Electric start (plus backup recoil starter)
DIMENSIONS
Overall length 1,961 mm (77.2 in)
Overall width 1,156 mm (45.5 in)
Overall height 1,144 mm (45.0 in)
Wheelbase 1,271 mm (50.0 in)
Dry Weight 260 kg (573 lbs)
TRANSMISSION & GEAR RATIO
Primary reduction 2.103
Secondary reduction 2.1
Final reduction Front 3.153
Final reduction Rear 3.153
Gear ratio 1st 4.083
Gear ratio 2nd 2.388
Gear ratio 3rd 1.608
Gear ratio 4th 1.178
Gear ratio 5th 0.848
Reverse gear ratio 4.781
CHASSIS & SUSPENSION
Caster angle 3.0°
Trail Length 7 mm (0.3 in)
Front suspension type Independent double-wishbone
Front suspension travel 150 mm (5.9 inches)
Rear suspension Swingarm with a single shock
Rear suspension travel 170 mm (6.7 inches)
FUEL & LUBRICANTS
Tongue and rear cargo weight 60 kg (133 lbs)
Fuel tank 12.0 (3.17 US gal, 2.64 Imp gal)
Fuel reserve 2.7 (0.71 US gal, 0.59 Imp gal)
Engine oil 2.7 (2.9 US qt, 2.4 Imp qt)
Engine oil capacity 2.0 l (2.1 US qt, 1.8 Imp qt)
Recommended oil viscosity SAE 10W-40
Oil Type Honda GN4-Stroke oil or equivalent
Rear final gear case oil 90 cm³ (3.0 US oz, 3.2 Imp oz)
Rear final gear case oil capacity 2.0 (2.1 US qt, 1.8 Imp qt)
Rear final gear case recommended oil Honda shaft drive oil or equivalent HYPOID GEAR OIL SAE 80
Rear final gear case drain plug torque 12 N m (1.2 kgf-m, 9 lbf ft)
Differential oil 190 cm³ (6.4 US oz, 6.7 Imp oz)
Differential oil type Honda shaft drive oil or equivalent HYPOID GEAR OIL SAE 80
Differential oil plug torque 12 N m (1.2 kgf-m, 9 lbf ft)
TIRES
Tire size, Front AT25×8−12×∗
Tire size, Rear AT25×10−12×∗
Tire brand KT401C DUNLOP, KT405C DUNLOP
Recommended pressure 25 kPa (0.25 kgf/cm2, 3.6 psi)
Minumum pressure without cargo 28 kPa (0.28 kgf/cm2, 4.0 psi)
Maximum pressure 22 kPa (0.22 kgf/cm2, 3.2 psi)
Recommended pressure with cargo 25 kPa (0.25 kgf/cm2, 3.6 psi)
ELECTRICAL & LIGHTS
Battery 12 V-12 Ah
Generator 0.31 kW/5,000 rpm
Sub fuse 15 A×2,10 A×2
Main fuse 30 A
Head light (Low/High) 12 V 25/25 W × 2
Assist headlight 12 V 45 W
Taillight 12 V 5 W × 2
Neutral indicator LED
Reverse indicator LED
Oil high temperature indicator LED
BRAKE
Front brake type Hydraulic disc brakes
Rear brake type Drum brakes
LOADING
Maximum weight capacity 220 kg (485 lbs) maximum
Front cargo rack weight limit 30 kg (66 lbs)
Rear cargo rack weight limit 60 kg (133 lbs)
Tow weight limit – combined weight of trailer and all cargo in trailer 385.5 kg (850 lbs)
Tongue weight 30 kg (13.6 lbs)

Let’s see more about tech specs

So let me tell you all about what makes the Foreman 450S tick. This ain’t no fancy brochure – just the straight talk on Honda’s workhorse quad.

The heart of this beast is a 433cc four-stroke thumper that’s liquid-cooled. It’s got that overhead valve setup that mechanics love because it’s dead simple and lasts forever. The engine’s built with an aluminum cylinder and steel sleeve so it won’t wear out when you’re putting in those long days.

Honda gave it a longer stroke than bore (about 86mm bore and 75mm stroke if you’re wondering), which is why these things pull like a mule even at low RPMs. They don’t rev super high with that 9:1-ish compression ratio, but who cares? They’ll run on regular gas and keep chugging along when other quads are in the shop.

For fuel, you’re looking at an old-school carburetor – none of that fancy fuel injection stuff. It’s got a choke for those cold mornings and once you figure out its quirks, it’ll start right up. The oil system is a basic wet sump setup that keeps everything slick, and the cooling system cycles fluid through the engine and radiator to keep temps steady even when you’re working it hard.

The ignition’s a CDI system – real reliable – and Honda was smart enough to give you both an electric start and a pull-start backup. There’s nothing worse than being stuck miles from home with a dead battery!

Now the drivetrain – this is where the Foreman shines as a worker. You get a five-speed manual transmission with reverse and a wet clutch that can take a beating. Power goes through a shaft drive instead of a chain, so you’re not constantly adjusting and lubricating like on some quads.

It’s mostly a 2WD machine with that bulletproof solid rear axle. Yeah, it ain’t as comfy as independent suspension, but you can haul loads all day without breaking stuff.

The frame’s just tough steel – nothing fancy, but it’ll last forever. Up front, you’ve got independent double wishbone suspension that soaks up the bumps pretty well. The rear’s a swingarm with that solid axle I mentioned, usually with just one shock. You can adjust both front and rear if you’re carrying heavy loads.

Brakes are hydraulic discs up front for good stopping power and a sealed drum brake in the back that won’t get gunked up when you’re splashing through mud and creeks.

The wheels are plain steel – not pretty but they won’t bend when you hit a rock. Tires are all-terrain and handle most stuff decent enough.

Size-wise, it’s big enough to be stable but not so huge you can’t get through tight trails. Ground clearance is pretty good for a utility quad, and the seat height works for most folks.

What really makes this a working machine are the sturdy front and rear racks for strapping down gear and a decent towing capacity for hauling stuff around your property.

Honda added also some basic lights too, so you can keep working after the sun goes down if you want.

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Souping Up Your Honda Foreman 450S – The Real Deal

So you want to get more out of your trusty old Foreman, huh? I’ve been modifying these things for years, and let me tell you what actually works:

Engine Mods – Wake That Thumper Up!

 

Better Air Filters: Ditch that stock filter and grab a K&N or UNI filter. These things breathe way better and you can just wash them instead of buying new ones all the time. If you ride in real dusty spots, slap an Outerwears pre-filter on there too. K&Ns are the best but they’ll run ya about 60-80 bucks. You can find cheap knockoffs for 30 bucks, but I wouldn’t trust them with my engine.

Carb Jet Kits: Your Foreman’s running too lean from the factory – Honda does this for emissions. Grab a Dynojet kit and you’ll feel the difference right away, especially if you’ve already put on that air filter. Dynojet makes the best stuff, around $120, but you can find basic kits for $60 if you’re pinching pennies.

Camshafts: Now we’re getting serious! A Hot Cams stage 1 will wake that engine right up. Just remember – different cams do different things. Want low-end grunt for mud? That’s a different cam than if you want high-RPM trail riding. These’ll run you $200-400 depending on how wild you want to get.

Big Bore Kits: The nuclear option! Cylinder Works makes good kits that’ll bump you up to 500cc or more. Prepare to spend $500+ and probably have your buddy who’s good with engines help you install it. These ain’t for beginners!

 

Exhaust – Let That Thing Breathe!

Slip-On Mufflers: Easiest mod you can do. Unbolt the stock can bolt on something from FMF or Yoshi, and instantly sound cooler while gaining a few ponies. A good aluminum slip-on is around $300, but those fancy titanium ones can hit $600. Your choice if the weight savings is worth the extra cash.

Full Systems: If you’ve done other mods, a full header-back system will let everything work together. FMF makes the Power Bomb header that works real nice on these Foremans. Expect to drop $600-800 for a quality setup. Again, titanium is lighter but pricier.

 

Suspension – Smooth Out The Rough Stuff

Better Shocks: The stock shocks are okay for farmwork but garbage on trails. Fox and Elka make amazing replacements, but they ain’t cheap -we’re talking $1500+ for a full set of the good stuff. If you’re on a budget, look for used take-offs from newer Honda models that might fit.

Long Travel Kits: These widen your stance and give you more wheel travel. Great for stability and soaking up bumps at speed. Houser makes good kits, but you’ll drop $2000+ easily. Plus, you’ll need wider tires to match that new stance.

  • Heavy-Duty Springs: If you’re always hauling or towing heavy stuff, grab some stiffer springs from Eibach. They’ll keep your quad from sagging under load. These are pretty reasonable at $150 or so for a set.

 

Carburetor Upgrades

Bigger Carbs: A Mikuni or Keihin carb can replace your stock one for better throttle response. I like the Mikuni TM40 if you can find one. They run about $400 but you’ll need to rejetting to make it work right.

Fuel Injection Controllers: If you’ve somehow gotten fuel injection on your Foreman (some guys swap newer Honda parts in), a Power Commander will let you dial in the perfect fuel mixture. They’re about $400 but worth every penny if you’ve done other mods.

Other Cool Stuff

Tires and Wheels: Nothing transforms how your quad rides like new rubber! For mudding, I like ITP Mudlites. For trails, the Maxxis Bighorns are hard to beat. Budget about $600-800 for a full set with decent aluminum wheels.

Protection: Ricochet makes the best skid plates for these quads. Your oil pan and frame will thank you when you slam into that hidden rock. Figure $200-300 for good underbelly protection.

Winches: Get stuck a lot? Slap a Warn 2500 up front. Saved my bacon more times than I can count! They run about $300 but get the synthetic rope, not steel cable.

Lights: Those stock headlights are like birthday candles. Some LED replacements or a light bar will change your night-riding game completely. You can start with $100 LEDs or go crazy with $500 worth of premium lighting.

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Honda Foreman 450S vs The Competition

Let’s get real about how Honda’s workhorse quad matched up against the other utility ATVs back in the day. Remember, the Foreman 450S wasn’t trying to be a race quad – it was built for gettin’ stuff done!

Who Was It Up Against?

  • Yamaha Kodiak 400/450: These Yamahas were solid machines that could work hard and play hard too. They had that sturdy rear axle like the Honda, but some models came with 4-wheel-drive which the Foreman S didn’t have. That was a big deal if you worked in mud or snow.
  • Polaris Sportsman 400/500: Man, Polaris really changed the game with these. They had independent rear suspension instead of a solid axle, so they rode smoother over rough stuff. Plus they all had 4WD. The downside? More parts to break when you’re really working them hard.
  • Suzuki KingQuad 400/450: Suzuki made some darn good utility quads. The KingQuads were reliable and also offered 4WD on most models. They were always solid competitors.
  • Kawasaki Prairie 360/400: The Prairie line was popular with folks who didn’t want to mess with shifting. Most had automatic CVT transmissions instead of the Honda’s manual 5-speed. Easier to ride but you lost some of that direct control.

What Made the Honda Foreman Stand Out?

  • Bulletproof Reliability: Honda just built ’em better, plain and simple. When your livelihood depends on your quad starting every morning at 5am in the freezing cold, that red Honda logo meant something.
  • Manual Transmission with Real Clutch: For old-school riders, nothing beats a proper manual transmission. You could engine-brake down steep hills and really control exactly how much power was going to the wheels. No slipping belt drives here!
  • Tank-Like Rear Axle: That solid rear axle might’ve bounced ya around a bit, but good luck breaking it! You could load up the rear rack with way more weight than Honda recommended and that axle just kept on ticking.
  • Simple Design: The Foreman was just… simpler. Less fancy electronic gizmos to go wrong, easier to work on in your garage, and fewer specialized tools needed for maintenance.

Where the Foreman Fell Short:

  • Only 2-Wheel-Drive: This was probably the biggest knock against it. When things got slick, those other quads with 4WD just went places the Foreman couldn’t without a lot more effort.
  • Rough Ride from That Solid Axle: Sure it was tough, but man did you feel every rock and root through that seat! The Polaris with IRS would float over the same trail that was beating you up on the Honda.
  • No Power Steering: Your arms got a workout steering this thing, especially in tight woods or after a full day of plowing snow. Some of the competition started offering power steering while the Foreman was still old-school manual.
  • Old-Tech Engine: The overhead valve engine was proven and reliable, but it wasn’t winning any horsepower contests against the overhead cam designs some competitors were using. Dependable? Yes. Exciting? Not so much.

Bottom line, the Honda Foreman 450S was the ATV for folks who valued “it just works” over flashy features. Honda built these things like tanks, and that manual transmission gave you control that automatic quads just couldn’t match. Yeah, it lacked the cushy ride and 4WD that others had, but for many ranchers, hunters, and property owners, the Honda’s legendary reliability made it the only choice worth considering.

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 Honda TRX450S – Troubleshooting

Problem Description Solution
Engine won’t start No crank, no spark, or only turns over Check battery charge, inspect spark plug, check kill switch, and confirm fuel delivery
Engine turns but won’t fire Starter works but no ignition Clean/replace spark plug, check ignition coil, test CDI unit, inspect carburetor/fuel lines
Hard starting (cold) Engine struggles to start when cold Use choke properly, clean carburetor, adjust fuel/air screw, check valve clearances
Loss of power ATV feels sluggish or bogs down Clean air filter, check fuel filter, clean carburetor, inspect exhaust for blockage
Engine stalls suddenly Shuts off while riding or idling Check for loose electrical connections, clean carburetor jets, test CDI and coil
Overheating Engine gets too hot or starts smoking Check coolant level (if liquid-cooled), clean cooling fins, avoid idling too long
Excessive smoke Blue smoke (oil burning) or black smoke (rich fuel) Blue: Check valve seals, piston rings. Black: Adjust carburetor, clean air filter
Transmission hard to shift Gears stick or won’t engage smoothly Check clutch adjustment, inspect shift linkage, change transmission oil
Starter not engaging Pressing start button results in click or nothing Test starter relay, solenoid, battery voltage, or starter motor
No electric start function No response when pressing start button Check fuses, battery voltage, ignition switch, starter button wiring
Battery won’t hold charge Battery drains quickly or won’t stay charged Test stator/rectifier, look for parasitic drain, replace old battery
Lights not working Headlight/taillight out Check bulbs, fuses, wiring harness, and switch connections
Poor idle Engine stalls or surges at idle Adjust idle screw, clean pilot jet, check intake boots for air leaks
Fuel leaking from carburetor Gas dripping from overflow or bowl Clean/replace float needle, check float height, replace gaskets

Honda TRX450S – Q & A

ENGINE & MECHANICAL

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Honda says to use 10W-40 or 20W-50 motorcycle oil that’s rated for wet clutches (look for JASO MA on the bottle). Don’t cheap out and use car oil – your clutch will hate you.

Every 100 hours or once a year, whichever hits first. If you’re riding in dusty conditions or working it hard, change it more often. And yeah, change that filter every time too.

Intake valves should be about 0.006″ (0.15mm) and exhaust valves around 0.012″ (0.30mm). Double-check your specific year in the manual though. Get this wrong and you’ll either burn valves or lose power.

Check the usual suspects – battery might be weak, choke might not be working right, or your carb could be gunked up. Make sure you’re using the choke properly (fully on for cold starts!). If it still won’t go, might be time for a compression test.

For sure you should! Could be something simple like a loose exhaust bolt, or something expensive like valve train problems. Find that noise before it finds your wallet.

Around 8.5:1 to 9.5:1 depending on the year. Nothing crazy high.

Most take an NGK plug gapped at about 0.028-0.031″ (0.7-0.8mm). Check your manual for the exact plug – running the wrong heat range can cause problems.

First, check your coolant level. Then look for a clogged radiator, stuck thermostat, or failing water pump. If you’ve modified the exhaust or air intake, your carb might need rejetting too.

Look this one up in your manual! It’s different by year, and you need to follow the exact pattern and stages. Mess this up and you’ll be buying a new head gasket real quick.

Around 1,400±100 rpm when warmed up is about right.

Start with the basics – check those battery connections first to make sure they’re clean and tight. Grab your multimeter and check the voltage. A good 12-volt battery should read about 12.6V when fully charged. If it’s reading way lower, try charging it up. If it won’t hold a charge, you’re probably looking at a replacement. Don’t forget to check for blown fuses too!

You’ll usually find the main fuse near the battery or starter solenoid. Look for a small plastic fuse holder. Check your owner’s manual for the exact spot on your year model – they tend to move these things around sometimes.

That clicking sound is almost always a low/dead battery. But if it’s not that, you could be looking at a bad starter solenoid or the starter motor itself. You can try a quick test by carefully jumping the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver (be careful!) – if the starter spins up, you’ve got a bad solenoid on your hands.

First thing’s first – check if the bulbs are burnt out. If they’re good, check the fuses for the lighting circuit. Then take a look at all the wiring connections to the headlights and the handlebar switch. I’ve seen plenty of cases where wires get loose or damaged from riding. Could also be a shot handlebar switch.

Pretty much the same drill as with the headlights. Check the bulb first, then fuses, then all the wiring going to the taillight. These wires can get damaged pretty easily since they’re exposed to the elements at the rear of the quad.

Sounds like you’ve got a parasitic draw somewhere – something’s sucking power even when the quad is off. Common culprits include a bad voltage regulator/rectifier, a short in the wiring, or maybe you’ve got an accessory that’s still drawing power. You can use a multimeter to measure the current draw when everything’s off to track it down.

It’s basically doing two jobs – converting AC power from the stator into DC power the battery can use, and regulating the voltage so it doesn’t overcharge your battery or fry other electrical components. Pretty important little box!

Get your multimeter out and measure the voltage at the battery terminals while the engine’s running at different RPMs. You should see around 13.5-14.5 volts. If it’s way higher or lower than that, your reg/rec is probably toast. Your service manual will have the exact specs and testing procedure for your year model.

Yeah, that’s exactly what the recoil starter is there for! It’s your mechanical backup that doesn’t need battery power to crank the engine. As long as you’ve got fuel and the engine is mechanically sound, you should be able to pull-start it. Just remember that your lights and other electrical stuff probably won’t work right without a charged battery.

Don’t just splice into the existing wiring – that’s asking for trouble! The right way is to use a relay that’s triggered by an existing switched circuit (like your headlight switch) but pulls its main power straight from the battery through its own fuse. This keeps you from overloading the stock wiring. Make sure to use the right gauge wire and appropriate fuses for whatever lights you’re adding. If you’re not confident with electrical work, might be worth paying a pro to do it right the first time.

CARBURETOR & FUEL SYSTEM

DRIVETRAIN

Take it off, take it apart (take pictures as you go!), spray everything with carb cleaner, and blow out all the little passages with compressed air. Put it back together exactly the way it came apart. If you’re not mechanically inclined, this might be one for the shop.

This varies by year and even where the quad was sold. Check your manual or ask folks with the same year on a Foreman forum.

Probably running lean (needs bigger jets), has a clogged pilot jet, or the accelerator pump is shot. Could also be a dirty air filter – check the easy stuff first!

Usually a stuck float needle or worn gasket. Time for a rebuild kit.

Start with it gently seated, then back it out about 1.5 turns. With the engine warmed up, turn it in or out 1/4 turn at a time until it runs smoothest at idle. If you can’t get it right, your pilot jet might be wrong.

It restricts air coming into the carb so you get more fuel – engines need to run rich when they’re cold.

Not an issue on your Foreman – it’s got just one cylinder, one carb.

Rich = too much fuel (black spark plug, black smoke, poor mileage). Lean = not enough fuel (white spark plug, overheating, poor performance). Lean conditions can wreck your engine.

It’s in the fuel line between the tank and carb. Change it every year or two, more often if your fuel’s sketchy.

Probably a clogged main jet or fuel supply problem. Your fuel petcock might not be flowing enough.

Check your manual – some years use the same oil as the engine, others need specific gear oil.

About as often as your engine oil, maybe a bit less frequently if you don’t ride hard.

? You might be able to adjust it if your model has an external adjuster. If not, you’re looking at opening up the engine case. Worn clutch plates need replacement.

Worn shift forks or gears inside the transmission. Not a simple fix – time for some major wrenching or a trip to the shop.

It’s to keep you from accidentally slamming into reverse while you’re moving forward and grenading your transmission.

Just like a motorcycle – you’ve got a clutch and different gears for different speeds and power needs.

Shaft drives are sealed from mud and water, need almost no maintenance, and last practically forever. They’re heavier and more expensive, but worth it for a workhorse quad.

Technically yes, practically no. It would cost way more than buying a 4WD quad, and require major surgery on the frame and drivetrain. Just sell it and buy a 4WD model.

It slips under power, shifts hard, or the lever engages way out at the end of its travel.

Just let off the gas while staying in gear. Lower gears give stronger engine braking. Great for control when going downhill.

CHASIS & SUSPENSION

BRAKES

Check your manual or the sticker on your ATV (see also the tech specs above in this article at tire section). Go lower for more traction off-road, higher for hard surfaces and heavy loads.

Turn the threaded collar on the shock – clockwise makes it stiffer (better for heavy loads), counter-clockwise makes it softer (better for comfort).

Your quad bounces like a pogo stick after bumps, bottoms out easily, or wallows through turns like a boat.

Look for little nipples called zerk fittings on the A-arms and other moving parts. Use a grease gun with good waterproof grease.

The low-tech way is to measure the distance between the front of the tires and the back of the tires. They should be equal or slightly toe-in (front measurement a bit smaller than rear).

Could be uneven tire pressure, bent parts, or suspension set differently side-to-side.

Jack up each wheel and try to wiggle it. Any clunking or side-to-side play means worn bearings. They should spin smooth with no grinding.

They’re the control arms that let your wheels move up and down over bumps while keeping them pointed in the right direction.

Try to wiggle them by hand – they shouldn’t have any play. Bad ones make your steering sloppy.

Check your manual for the exact spec, but it’s in the 6-8 inch range depending on year.

Open the bleeder screw on the caliper, have a buddy pump the brake lever, close the screw, repeat until no more air bubbles come out. Keep the master cylinder topped up with fresh fluid during the process.

DOT 3 or DOT 4, whichever Honda specifies for your year. Don’t mix types and never use DOT 5 (silicone) unless specifically called for.

Air in the lines. Time to bleed ’em.

For the front discs, you can usually see the pads through the caliper. They should have at least 1/16″ of material. For the rear drum, you’ll need to pull the wheel and drum to check the shoes.

Worn pads, dirty rotors, or glazed brake material. Clean the rotors with brake cleaner and replace pads if worn.

There’s usually an adjuster near the lever or a star wheel behind the drum. Turn it until you get a firm feel at the lever with no dragging.

Could be a seized caliper, plugged line, or bad master cylinder. Not good – fix it before riding.

Every 1-2 years. Old fluid absorbs water and gets contaminated, leading to poor braking and internal corrosion.

Keeps your quad from rolling away when parked, especially on hills.

There’s usually a cable adjuster somewhere along the line. Adjust it so the parking brake holds firmly when engaged but doesn’t drag when released.

 Honda TRX450S – Maintenance Schedule

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Part Type of maintenance -> whichever come first Hours Miles
Fuel line Inspect 200 1200
Throttle operation Inspect 200 1200
Carburetor choke Inspect 200 1200
Air cleaner housing Clean 100 600
Air cleaner housing drain tube Inspect 100 600
Spark plug Inspect 100 600
Valve clearance Inspect 100 600
Engine oil Replace 100 600
Engine oil filter Replace 100 600
Engine idle speed Inspect 100 600
Drive shaft boots Inspect 100 600
Rear final gear case oil and differential oil Inspect every 2 years or -> 200 2000
Brake fluid Inspect 100 600
Brake shoe wear Inspect 200 1200
Brake system Inspect 100 600
Reverse lock system Inspect 100 600
Skid plates, engine guard Inspect 100 600
Clutch system Inspect 100 600
Suspension Inspect 100 600
Spark arrester Clean 100 600
Nuts, bolts, fasteners Inspect 200 2000
Wheels/tires Inspect 100 600
Steering shaft holder bearings Inspect 200 1200
Steering system Inspect 200 1200