Image Yamaha Banshee 350

Yamaha Banshee 350 Review, Specs, Price, Top Speed, Upgrades, Troubleshooting and Q&A

The Banshee 4-wheeler 350 is a legendary two-stroke off-road vehicle made by Yamaha from 1987 to 2006 (in the US, for other markets it was produced until 2012). Even though it’s been out of production for more than 15 years in the US, the Banshee is still very popular with off-road fans because of its amazing performance and unique design.

The differentiation from other brands of Banshee 350 is its smooth and distinctive body shape, which you can’t see in any other ATV model. The ATV has a low, flowing outline with sharp-angled fenders, and the seat is slim enough to give the rider maximum control and easy movement any time.

In general, the outside of the ATV is made of strong and very good quality plastic. This plastic doesn’t break easily and isn’t heavy, thus helping the entire ATV to be lighter and of course, to perform better.

The Yamaha Banshee 350 is pretty light if you compare it to other sports ATVs produced back in the 80’s. Its total weight is about 175 kg (386 lbs), which is pretty impressive if you take into account its strong engine and solid frame. The entire body was lightweight built, which makes this off-road vehicle move quickly and be responsive on trails, and the riders can move through tight turns and rough ground easily.

The 350 Banshee comes with a 12.0 L (2.6 Imp gal, 3.2 US gal) tank, which is pretty small compared to other ATVs, but my feeling is this choice was done on purpose. The smaller tank fits with the Banshee’s light design and high-power engine, which needs less fuel to run well.

Buying price of a used 350 can change based on how old it is, how it looks, and what extras it has. On average, a used Banshee might cost anywhere from $3,500 to $8,000, but for sure you could pay more for models that look really good or have aftermarket exhaust systems, better suspension, or custom paint jobs.

Control and Speed

The Yamaha Banshee 350 is a high-powered sport all-terrain vehicle, which was made for riders who want heart-pumping off-road adventures.

 

Yamaha Banshee 350 Maximum Speed & Pick-up

Yamaha’s amazing idea was to put a 2-stroke, liquid-cooled, 347 cc engine in the Banshee 350, which gives 34 horsepower to the ATV. The engine was designed with a 6-speed manual gear system and equipped with a kick-start setup, which allows you to control the machine very well during riding.

The Yamaha Banshee top speed is ~75–80 mph (120–129 km/h), making it one of the fastest ATVs you can buy even today. The 350 Banshee is one of the few sports machines that was equipped standard with two exhaust pipes, giving it a special look and helping the ATV’s performance become smoother and its power delivery better.

 

Yamaha Banshee 350 top speed

In our test drive, this quad could hit 73 mph in 12 seconds on flat ground. It would be a bit slower on bumpy and rough terrain.

 

Stopping Power

This Yamaha ATV has a fluid-powered brake system with two front disc brakes and one rear disc brake. You work the front brakes with a lever on the handlebar, while the back brake works with a foot pedal. The fluid system makes sure the brakes respond well and stop you quickly.

The brakes also include a parking brake, which you control with a lever on the left side of the handlebars, and it locks the back wheel, giving extra safety when you park on a hill.

 

Shock Absorbers And Handling

The shock system has an independent double-wishbone front setup and a single-shock rear system, as with much of the other Yamaha models of that time. This ATV has a short wheelbase and sits low to the ground, giving it great stability, making it super agile and of course quick to respond to what the rider does.

The Banshee 350’s frame was engineered amazingly, to give the maximum of stability and control, letting riders move and handle the ATV easily, even at high speeds.

The steering system of the Banshee 350 is very responsive and reacts quickly to what you want. The handlebars placement was very well designed by engineers, to give great leverage and control, making it easy to move even in tight spaces.

Yamaha Banshee 350 Performance Guide

How to do Upgrades And Which Kits Fit Best For Different Riding Styles

I gather here, based on my expertise, the common performance updates that can be made on Banshee 350, modifications, suspension setup, parts quality, and general maintenance tips. Let’s see what it’s about:

Increasing Engine Performance

One of the most common questions about the 350 Banshee is how to make an engine “run harder” or perform better. This is a complex question with many possible answers if you ask me, depending on several factors:

• Your riding style and terrain
• Your performance goals
• Your quad’s current modifications
• Your available budget
• The specific model you’re working with

The most cost-effective performance upgrades which can be done easily typically include:

1. Jetting modifications – Tuning your carburetor properly can significantly improve engine performance. You need to play with settings till you achieve the boost you need.
2. Exhaust system upgrades – The stock exhaust systems are quite restrictive in general for this specific model, that’s why a performance exhaust system will improve scavenging (removal of exhaust gases), enhance power at different RPMs, and reduce unnecessary weight. The Banshee benefits greatly from a tuned two-stroke exhaust.

 

Key Components to improve the exhaust system:

• Expansion Chambers (pipes): Improve top-end or low-end power depending on design.
• Silencers: Often paired with tuned pipes for reduced sound and increased performance.

Here are the top producer brands for exhaust systems compatible with Yamaha Banshee 350:

• Toomey Racing T5
  • One of the most popular Banshee pipe systems on the market today.
  • Offers strong mid-to-top-end power.
  • Known for quality and reliability.
• FMF Fatty + Powercore 2 Silencers
  • FMF Fatty pipes broaden powerband.
  • Powercore 2 silencers offer improved flow and aggressive tone.
  • Good for trail and dune riding.
• CPI (Custom Pipe Inc.) In-Frame or Out-of-Frame Pipes
  • Designed for racing and high-performance applications.
  • Often used on big bore and drag builds.
• Shearer Pipes
  • Available in multiple configurations: In-frame, out-of-frame, and “small bore” or “big bore”.
  • Great for custom applications and large displacement engines.
• DMC 916 or Alien Pipes
  • Balanced performance, slightly more low-end than Toomey.
  • Unique styling.

Here you have some installation tips and tricks:

• Re-jet the carbs after any exhaust change.
• Match the pipe setup with your riding style and engine build (e.g., stock vs. stroker or big bore).
• Consider upgrading mounts and gaskets to prevent leaks.

Air intake improvements

Improving airflow is critical to match increased exhaust flow. Better intake means more air + fuel mixture = more power.

 Key Components:

1. • Aftermarket Air Filter (higher flow)
   • Airbox Mod or Elimination
   • Reed Valve Upgrade
   • Jetting Adjustments

• Top Brands & Options:

1. • • K&N High-Flow Air Filters

• • • • Washable and reusable.
      • Offers excellent airflow with optional pre-filter covers.
      • Used in open or modified airbox setups.

1. • • Uni Filter Dual Stage Foam Filter

• • • • Excellent for dusty or off-road conditions.
      • Foam filters flow well and trap dirt effectively.

• • Pro Design Pro Flow Intake Kit
    • • Eliminates restrictive airbox lid.
      • Includes billet aluminum adapter and high-flow filter.
      • Often used with K&N or Uni filters.
  • VForce3 Reed Valve System by Moto Tassinari
    • • Allows better throttle response and midrange power.
      • Replaces stock reed cage for smoother air intake.
  • Boyesen RAD Valve
    • • Another reed valve option that improves intake velocity.

 

Airbox Tips:

• Airbox Lid Removal or Venting: Increases airflow, but use pre-filters to avoid debris entry.
• Airbox Elimination (“pod filters”): Provides maximum airflow but increases exposure to dirt/water. Not ideal for muddy or wet conditions.
• Always rejet your carburetors after air intake changes.

 

Tuning After Upgrades

• Whether you upgrade your exhaust, intake, or both, proper tuning is essential:
• Carb Jetting: Adjust main jet, pilot jet, and needle to match airflow changes.
• Use a temperature/altitude calculator or AFR meter for accuracy.
• Consider using dual carb sync tools for balanced performance.

These three modifications together can “wake up” a stock engine substantially without breaking the bank. They form the foundation of any performance build.

For those willing to invest more, options expand dramatically:

 

Here’s a breakdown of the most suitable exhaust and air intake combinations for the Yamaha Banshee 350, tailored to different riding styles. Each combo balances power delivery, throttle response, and durability specific to the terrain or purpose:

Trail Riding / Woods / Technical Terrain

Goal: Strong low to mid-range power, crisp throttle, reliable in variable terrain.

Recommended Setup:

• Exhaust:
  • FMF Fatty Pipes + Powercore 2 Silencers
  • OR DMC 916 Exhaust (slightly more low-end than FMF)
• Air Intake:
  • Uni Foam Filter with Airbox Lid Vents
  • Pro Design Pro Flow Kit (retains protection but increases flow)
  • Boyesen RAD Valve or VForce3 Reeds for better throttle response
• Tuning:
  • Slightly rich jetting for reliability
  • Retain airbox for water/dust protection

 

Dune Riding / Desert

Goal: Broad powerband with emphasis on high RPM for wide-open throttle use.

Recommended Setup:

• Exhaust:
  • Toomey T5 Pipes (great mid-to-top power)
  • OR Shearer Small Bore In-Frame Pipes
• Air Intake:
  • K&N Filter with Outerwear Pre-filter
  • Airbox lid removed or eliminated
  • VForce3 Reed Valve System
• Tuning:
  • Leaner jetting to match higher air flow
  • Optional timing advance for snappier rev

 

MX / Track Racing

Goal: Fast throttle response, strong mid-range for jumps and corners.

Recommended Setup:

• Exhaust:
  • Toomey T5 Pipes
  • OR FMF Fatty Pipes
• Air Intake:
  • Pro Design Pro Flow with K&N Filter
  • VForce3 Reeds or Boyesen RAD Valve
• Tuning:
  • Dialed-in carb jetting and dual carb sync
  • Clutch upgrade (like Barnett or Hinson) for better launches

 

Drag Racing / Sand Drags

Goal: Maximum top-end horsepower and RPM efficiency.

Recommended Setup:

• Exhaust:
  • Shearer Out-of-Frame Drag Pipes or CPI In-Frame Big Bore
• Air Intake:
  • Airbox eliminated, dual pod K&N filters
  • VForce3 Reed System
• Tuning:
  • Large carburetors (e.g., 35–39mm Keihin PWK)
  • Custom ported cylinders and possibly +4 or +7 stroker
  • High-compression domes or race gas domes

 

Street / Supermoto / Occasional Use

Goal: Reliable all-around performance with emphasis on smooth delivery.

Recommended Setup:

• Exhaust:
  • FMF Fatty or DMC 916 Pipes
• Air Intake:
  • K&N or Uni Filter with Outerwear
  • Keep airbox for consistent air temp
• Tuning:
  • Balanced jetting, easy cold starts
  • Stock or near-stock compression for pump gas

Below you can find other updates that can increase your Banshee 350 performance:

 

Cylinder porting

Duncan Racing International (DRI) offers specialized porting services tailored to various riding styles:

• National XC: Optimized for strong low-end torque, ideal for cross-country and tight woods riding.
• National Midrange: Provides excellent midrange power, suitable for motocross and trail riding.
• National High Rev: Designed for top-end power, perfect for drag racing and high-speed applications.

DRI’s porting services include precise port timing and customized head modifications, ensuring both performance and reliability.

Higher compression pistons

• Brands like Wiseco and Vertex are commonly used in performance builds. These pistons are often paired with stroker crankshafts and require appropriate dome sizes in the cylinder head to manage compression ratios effectively.

 

 Stroker cranks

Enhancing displacement and torque can be achieved with stroker crankshafts like:

• Hot Rods +4mm Stroker Crankshaft: Features a 58mm stroke with 115mm rods, commonly used in 421cc and 472cc engine builds.
• Vito’s Performance +7mm Stroker Crankshaft: Offers a 7mm increase in stroke, providing substantial torque gains.
• BPRATV +4mm Stroker Crankshaft: Comes trued and welded for durability, includes wrist pin bearings.

These crankshafts are compatible with various cylinder and piston combinations to achieve desired performance outcomes.

Aftermarket cylinder heads

Upgrading the cylinder head can improve cooling and allow for compression adjustments:

• Pro-Design “Cool Head”: Billet aluminum head with replaceable domes, available in sizes ranging from 16cc to 22cc to fine-tune compression ratios.
• Modquad Racing Cool Heads: Features large water cavities for improved cooling and interchangeable domes for customization. These heads are compatible with all years of the Yamaha Banshee 350 and are designed to enhance performance and reliability.

 

Power valve systems

The Yamaha Banshee 350’s stock engine does not include a power valve system. Implementing such a system would require extensive modifications or engine swaps, which are complex and not commonly pursued due to the significant alterations needed.

 

Displacement increases

 Increasing engine displacement can lead to significant power gains:

• 421cc Big Bore Kit: Includes Athena big bore cylinders, Hot Rods stroker crankshaft, and Wiseco pistons. This kit boosts displacement to 421cc, enhancing overall performance.

 

Two-stroke quads like the Yamaha Banshee are particularly popular for modifications because their relatively simple design allows for extensive customization. That’s why these machines maintain such a dedicated following – they can be built to match exactly what the rider wants.

Suspension Height Adjustments

 Another frequent question concerns how to adjust a quad’s ride height. Many riders want to either raise their machine for better ground clearance or lower it for improved stability.

If your ATV sits lower than you’d like, there are several ways to increase its height:

1. Shock mounting brackets – Aftermarket brackets can raise or lower mounting points on both front and rear suspension
2. Longer shock absorbers – Though more expensive than brackets, longer shocks tend to provide better reliability and functionality
3. Larger tires – Moving up to taller tires (like 21-inch fronts) with fresh tread can add noticeable height
4. Extended A-arms – While primarily designed to widen the stance, extended A-arms can sometimes create the visual impression of increased height

It’s worth noting that many used ATVs may not have their original factory suspension components. Older machines often pass through multiple owners who make various modifications. You might unknowingly have shorter shocks giving your quad a lowered stance without realizing it.

When considering suspension modifications, always think about how they’ll affect handling characteristics. A higher stance improves ground clearance but may impact stability, while lowering can improve cornering but reduce clearance for obstacles.

 

Choosing Quality Parts

Perhaps the most important advice for any ATV owner concerns parts selection. The market is flooded with aftermarket components ranging from premium brands to budget knockoffs, and choosing wisely can mean the difference between reliability and frustration.

When it comes to engine internals and critical components, this is what I recommend:

• Wiseco – Considered the minimum acceptable quality level for serious riders
• Namura and Athena – Lower-tier but still acceptable for less demanding applications
• Generic unbranded parts – Best avoided for critical components

Many riders wonder if budget parts are “just as good” as name brands, especially when they appear identical. The reality is more complicated. While budget parts may use the same molds or designs as premium brands, they typically cut corners in:

• Material quality
• Heat treatment processes
• Precision of machining
• Quality control standards
• Bearing and seal quality

This is particularly evident with components like crankshafts. A $150 crankshaft might visually resemble a $400 one from a premium manufacturer, but the metallurgy, bearings, and manufacturing precision will be substantially different. The budget version may contain more filler materials like tin in the steel to reduce costs, compromising strength and durability.

A good rule of thumb: For external accessories like handlebars or brake levers, budget parts might be worth the risk. For internal engine components or any parts subject to high stress, heat, or pressure, invest in quality brands with established reputations and warranties.

 

Popular Riding Destinations

For riders looking to explore new terrain, hill climbing destinations offer some of the most challenging and exciting experiences. Areas like Trevorton, Pennsylvania, have become legendary in the ATV community for their challenging ascents and technical terrain.

When researching new riding spots:

• Watch videos online to get a feel for the terrain
• Connect with local riding groups who know the area where you want to ride
• Check if there are organized events or meetups
• Verify that the area is legally open to ATVs

Hill climbing in particular requires specific machine setup and riding techniques. Proper tire selection, weight distribution, and throttle control become crucial for successfully conquering steep inclines.

 

The Lifecycle of Project ATVs

Many enthusiasts enjoy buying, rebuilding, and eventually selling ATVs as projects. This approach allows riders to experience different machines while developing mechanical skills and sometimes even turning a profit.

When taking on an ATV project:

1. Set clear goals – Decide if you’re building for personal use, resale, or as a long-term keeper
2. Document everything – Take photos and notes throughout the process
3. Make smart upgrade choices – Consider which modifications will add the most value
4. Know when to sell – The best time to sell is often when the machine is freshly completed and running perfectly

Some machines become “keepers” that owners hold onto indefinitely, especially if they’ve been part of a memorable build or have become synonymous with the owner’s identity in the riding community. These special quads often serve as benchmarks against which all future projects are measured.

Banshee 350: Closing Thoughts

The way you sit on the Banshee 350 is often praised for how comfortable it is. The handlebars are set up to let you control this ATV easily, and the footrests let riders shift their weight while turning with comfort.

Many say the Banshee 350 has a nice seat with enough cushion for long rides. But some riders have noticed the seat could be wider to better support your legs. Also, some have said it could be less slippery to keep you from sliding when riding up steep hills.

The lights on the Banshee 350 include a halogen headlight that gives bright light for the rider. The headlight sits at the front to give the best view on the trail. The rider can turn the headlight on or off with a switch on the handlebars.

The Banshee has a huge community of aftermarket parts, with seemingly endless custom pieces and add-ons available. This makes it easy for owners to change and personalize their machines however they want. From engine upgrades and suspension changes to look improvements, there’s no end to how you can customize a Banshee.

Despite all its good points, we’ve seen some problems with the Banshee 350. The ATV can be really noisy, which can be a problem for some riders, especially in places with noise rules. Also, the Banshee 350’s two-stroke engine can be tricky to keep up with and needs frequent attention to make sure it performs at its best.

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
ITEM	ROUTINE	INTERVAL
Transmission	Replace oil.	6 months
Cooling system	Check coolant leakage. Repair if necessary. Replace coolant every 24 months.	6 months
Spark plug	Check condition. Adjust gap and clean. Replace if necessary.	6 months
Air filter	Clean. Replace if necessary.	Every 20-40 hours (more ofter in dusty or wet areas)
Carburetor	Check idle speed / starter operation. Adjust if necessary.	6 months
Spark arrester	Clean.	6 months
Fuel line	Check fuel hose for cracks or damage. Replace if necessary.	6 months
Throttle operation	Inspect and adjust free play if necessary.	6 months
Front and rear brake operation	Check operation/fluid leakage/See manual. Correct if necessary.	6 months
Front and rear brake pads	Check pad wear. Replace if necessary.	6 months
Clutch	Inspect free play and operation. Replace if necessary.	6 months
Drive chain	Check chain slack/alignment. Adjust if necessary. Clean and lube. Replace if necessary.	6 months
Drive chain guard and rollers	Check wear and replace if necessary.	6 months
Steering system	Inspect free play, clean and lubricate	6 months
Front and rear suspension	Inspect and lubricate.	6 months
Tires, wheels Throttle, control cable	Inspect air pressure, wheel runout, and tire wear. Inspect bearings. Replace bearings if necessary. Check routing and connection. Lubricate.	6 months
Outside nuts and bolts	Retighten.	6 months
Frame	Clean and inspect.	6 months
Lighting equipment	Inspect.	6 months

Yamaha Banshee 350 – Q & A

ENGINE & CYLINDER QUESTIONS

 PISTONS, CRANKS, & STROKERS

AIR INTAKE & CARBS

EXHAUST SYSTEMS

ELECTRICAL & IGNITION

TRANSMISSION & CLUTCH

TROUBLESHOOTING
System	Symptom	Possible Cause	Recommended Fix
Axle	Wobble from rear axle	Bent axle, loose hub	Replace axle, tighten hub
Chassis	Excessive vibration	Loose mounts, bent frame	Tighten mounts, inspect frame
Chassis	Rear axle wobbles	Bent axle or loose hubs	Replace axle or retorque hubs
Chassis	Vibration at high RPM	Loose engine mounts or bent frame	Check mounts, inspect frame
Electrical	Dim lights at idle	Weak stator output	Replace or rewind stator
Engine	Backfiring on deceleration	Air leak, lean mix	Fix leaks, adjust air screw
Engine	Bogging under throttle	Incorrect jetting, dirty air filter	Rejet, clean filter
Engine	Carb overflow leak	Stuck float, worn needle valve	Rebuild carb
Engine	Clutch slipping	Worn clutch plates/springs	Replace clutch components
Engine	Dies when hot	Bad CDI or coil	Replace failing component
Engine	Difficult shifting	Bent fork, worn parts	Rebuild transmission
Engine	Engine cuts out when hot	Failing stator or coil	Heat-test and replace parts
Engine	Engine knock/ping	Lean mix, wrong spark plug	Rejet, correct plug
Engine	Engine won’t rev high	Clogged exhaust, bad CDI	Clean exhaust, replace CDI
Engine	Erratic idle	Reed valve issue	Replace or inspect reeds
Engine	Excessive smoke	Too much oil in mix	Adjust premix ratio
Engine	Flooding at startup	Bad float valve	Clean/replace float valve
Engine	Fuel in transmission oil	Right crank seal leak	Replace right crank seal
Engine	Grinding internal noise	Broken gear	Engine teardown
Engine	Hard starting	Fouled spark plugs, weak spark	Replace plugs, check ignition system
Engine	High idle	Air leak or stuck throttle cable	Fix leak, adjust cable
Engine	Kickstarter slips	Worn gear or pawl	Rebuild kicker assembly
Engine	Low overall power	Worn rings, poor compression	Top-end rebuild
Engine	Misfire under load	Weak coil, fouled plug	Test coil, clean or replace plug
Engine	No spark	Faulty stator or kill switch	Test stator, inspect kill switch wiring
Engine	Noisy top end	Loose piston or worn bearing	Replace piston pin/bearing
Engine	Oil drips from exhaust	Over-oiling, poor combustion	Tune jetting
Engine	Oil leaking from crankcase	Bad gasket or crank seal	Replace gasket or seals
Engine	One cylinder not firing	Dirty carb, bad coil, low compression	Clean carbs, test coil, compression test
Engine	Overheating	Lean jetting, clogged radiator	Rejet, clean radiator
Engine	Overrevving in neutral	Vacuum leak or high idle screw	Adjust idle or fix leak
Engine	Piston slap noise	Worn piston or cylinder wall	Bore cylinder, replace piston
Engine	RPM drops drastically mid-ride	Failing ignition or clogged carb	Clean carb, test ignition
Engine	RPM surges at idle	Air leak, cracked intake boot	Replace boot, reseal intake
Engine	Seized after storage	Rusted internals	Disassemble, inspect
Engine	Spark plug keeps fouling	Rich jetting, wrong plug	Rejet, change plug
Engine	Vibrates at specific RPM	Misaligned crank or mount	Inspect crank and mounts
Engine	Water in crankcase	Submersion, bad seals	Replace crank seals, flush oil
Engine	Whining noise at high RPM	Worn crank bearings	Bottom-end rebuild
Engine	Won’t stay running	Fuel delivery or tank vent	Clear vent, check lines
Front Suspension	“Bump steer” over rough ground	Poor alignment or worn arms	Realign, replace bushings
Front Suspension	Clicking noise on compression	Worn bushings or loose fork components	Inspect and tighten/rebuild
Front Suspension	Excessive front-end dive under braking	Weak fork springs or low oil	Refill or upgrade fork internals
Front Suspension	Fork seals leaking	Damaged seals or dirt on fork tubes	Replace fork seals, clean tubes
Front Suspension	Harsh ride over bumps	Fork oil too thick or overfilled	Change to correct viscosity and volume
Front Suspension	Steering feels heavy	Over-tightened steering stem bearings	Adjust or replace bearings
Front Suspension	Uneven front-end response	Bent fork tube or misaligned triple clamps	Realign or replace forks
Fuel	Fuel leak near petcock	Bad gasket or fuel line	Replace petcock or hose
Rear Axle	Bearing squeal	Dry or bad bearings	Replace and grease bearings
Rear Suspension	“Packs down” quickly	Slow rebound	Adjust rebound
Rear Suspension	Chain rubs swingarm	Worn slider, poor adjustment	Replace slider, fix tension
Rear Suspension	Chain tension varies	Loose swingarm pivot	Tighten or rebuild pivot
Rear Suspension	Travel feels limited	Binding or corrosion in linkage	Clean and grease
Steering	Bars twist when landing	Bent stem or loose clamps	Replace stem, tighten bars
Steering	Handlebar shake (headshake)	Worn tie rods or ball joints	Replace parts
Steering	Heavy steering	Tight stem bearings	Adjust or replace bearings
Steering	Wandering at speed	Bent tie rods, poor alignment	Replace rods, align wheels
Suspension	Body roll in corners	Weak springs, worn sway bar bushings	Replace bushings/springs
Suspension	Clicking on compression	Worn fork bushings	Rebuild forks
Suspension	Fork seal leaks	Damaged seals, dirty tube	Replace seals
Suspension	Front dives during braking	Weak fork springs	Replace or upgrade springs
Suspension	Harsh front suspension	Fork oil too thick	Change oil viscosity
Suspension	Harsh landings	Wrong spring rate, bad damping	Upgrade or revalve shocks
Suspension	Harsh ride at high speeds	Spring too stiff or damping incorrect	Re-tune suspension
Suspension	Locked rear travel	Seized linkage or bearing	Clean or replace linkage
Suspension	One side sags more	Uneven preload or bent shock	Reset preload, inspect parts
Suspension	Popping over terrain	Worn ball joints	Replace joints
Suspension	Pulls to one side	Preload mismatch or bent arm	Check preload, inspect control arms
Suspension	Rear bottoms out	Weak spring or blown shock	Replace spring or shock
Suspension	Rear bounces over bumps	Lost damping	Rebuild rear shock
Suspension	Rear loses traction over bumps	Rebound too fast	Adjust damping
Suspension	Rear sags excessively	Worn spring or shock	Replace or rebuild shock
Suspension	Rear squeaks	Dry linkage bearings	Grease or replace bearings
Suspension	Shock clunk at full extension	Internal damage	Rebuild shock
Suspension	Tire rubs plastic	Worn shocks, sag	Adjust or replace shocks
Suspension	Uneven fork compression	Bent fork or poor alignment	Straighten or replace fork
Suspension	Uneven tire wear	Misalignment	Realign suspension
Throttle	Throttle sticks open	Kinked cable or dirty slide	Replace or clean cable