Image Yamaha Blaster 200

Yamaha Blaster 200

Why Riders Still Love This Little Monster

Back in 1988, Yamaha came on the market with this little quad, which wasn’t the biggest or the fanciest, but was very sporty! Even though they stopped making them in 2006, you’ll still find these zippy machines tearing up trails even today.

To compete with other sports ATV brands on the market, Yamaha needed something affordable and reliable.

Their solution? Take a proven motorcycle engine, wrap it in a lightweight chassis, and price it so that average folks could afford it. Simple, right?

In my opinion,n it was a winning solution which came from a simple idea and created a big impact over time.

I remember seeing my first Blaster at a demo done by our local dealer when I was about 12 years old. The guy who was doing the demo came flying over a jump, the machine’s blue new paint was catching the sun, and that distinctive two-stroke loud engine was a wonder. My jaw dropped. It wasn’t much bigger than the kiddie quads I was used to, but it moved like something from another planet.

What Made the Blaster So Desirable At That Time?

The 200 Blaster had a lightweight frame, a punchy two-stroke engine, and a price tag that didn’t make your bank account suffer too much. That was the Yamaha Blaster in a nutshell.

I remember the first time I rode my buddy’s Blaster back in the early 2000s. That 195cc two-stroke engine hit like nothing else – kind of tame at first, then BAM!

With only around 18 horsepower, it doesn’t sound impressive on paper, but trust me, on a machine that light, it felt like a rocket.

The Blaster wasn’t trying to be fancy. No electric start. No reverse gear. No liquid cooling system or complicated electronics. Just a simple, air-cooled engine, six-speed manual transmission, and enough attitude to make you grin every time you grabbed the throttle.

What’s crazy is how versatile it was despite its simplicity. One weekend you’d see a stock Blaster putting around with a new rider learning the ropes. The next weekend, you’d see a modified one clearing jumps at the local track. It was like a well-hand-crafted Swiss Watch of sport quads.

Upgrades that can be done to Yamaha Blaster 200

1. Engine Upgrades

 

Big Bore Kits

• What It Does: Increases engine displacement (commonly to 240cc or 250cc).
• Benefits:
  • Substantial boost in torque and overall horsepower.
  • Improved acceleration, especially noticeable on trails and in sand.
  • Makes the engine more competitive in race setups.
• Brands: CT Racing, Duncan Racing, LA Sleeve

 

 High Compression Pistons

• What It Does: Raises the compression ratio of the combustion chamber.
• Benefits:
  • Increases combustion efficiency for stronger power strokes.
  • Enhances throttle response and low-end performance.
  • Can work with race gas for even better gains.
• Brands: Wiseco, Pro-X, Wossner

 

Porting & Polishing

• What It Does: Machining intake and exhaust ports for smoother airflow.
• Benefits:
  • Enhances air-fuel mixture velocity, improving burn quality.
  • Delivers stronger top-end performance and smoother powerband.
  • Customizable for trail, dune, or racing setups.
• Brands: CT Racing, Duncan Racing, K&T Performance

 

Reed Valve Upgrade

• What It Does: Replaces stock reed petals with performance versions.
• Benefits:
  • Improves air intake timing and low-mid power.
  • Reduces lag and increases engine responsiveness.
• Brands: VForce (Moto Tassinari), Boyesen

 

Carburetor Upgrade

• What It Does: Replaces stock carb with a larger or performance-optimized model.
• Benefits:
  • Provides better air-fuel control, leading to improved power and torque.
  • Allows tuning for other mods like pipes or big bore kits.
• Brands: Keihin PWK, Mikuni, Lectron

 

2. Exhaust System Upgrades

 

Expansion Chamber / Tuned Pipe

• What It Does: A precisely shaped exhaust pipe tuned to 2-stroke engine dynamics.
• Benefits:
  • Major gains in mid-to-top end power.
  • Reduces back pressure and improves scavenging of exhaust gases.
  • Critical for unlocking full potential of other engine mods.
• Brands: FMF (Fatty), Toomey (B1), CT Racing, Pro Circuit

 

Silencer / Muffler

• What It Does: Reduces noise while maintaining or improving flow.
• Benefits:
  • Reduces weight compared to stock.
  • Slight performance boost, especially when paired with an expansion chamber.
• Brands: FMF, Pro Circuit, Toomey

 

Jetting Kits

• What It Does: Matches carburetor fuel delivery to air and exhaust upgrades.
• Benefits:
  • Prevents engine from running lean or rich.
  • Protects against engine damage and ensures optimal power.
• Brands: Dynojet, JD Jetting

3. Intake & Air System

 High-Flow Air Filter

• What It Does: Replaces restrictive OEM filter.
• Benefits:
  • Allows more air to enter the engine, improving combustion.
  • Increases throttle response and power output.
  • Washable and reusable in many cases.
• Brands: Uni Filter, K&N, Twin Air

 

Air Box Mods / Air Box Eliminator

• What It Does: Enlarges or replaces the airbox with an open filter setup.
• Benefits:
  • Maximizes airflow to the carburetor.
  • Useful in conjunction with tuned pipes and big bore kits.
  • Requires jetting and proper filtration to avoid dirt ingress.
• Brands: Modquad, Pro Design, Dirt Fiend Racing (DFR)

 

4. Suspension Upgrades

 Aftermarket Front Shocks

• What It Does: Adds compression/rebound adjustability and better damping.
• Benefits:
  • Dramatically improves ride comfort and handling.
  • Reduces bottoming out during jumps or rough terrain.
• Brands: Elka, Works Performance, Fox Racing Shox, TCS

Rear Shock Upgrade

• What It Does: Replaces or rebuilds the stock shock for better performance.
• Benefits:
  • Offers better traction, especially in rough or off-camber situations.
  • Adjustable shocks let you fine-tune for rider weight and terrain.
• Brands: Elka, Works Performance, Fox

Wider A-Arms

• What It Does: Increases front track width (e.g., +2 inches).
• Benefits:
  • Improved stability during turns.
  • Better control at speed and reduced tipping in corners.
• Brands: Lonestar Racing, Houser Racing, Laeger’s

 

5. Braking System

 Braided Steel Brake Lines

• What It Does: Replaces factory rubber lines.
• Benefits:
  • Firmer brake lever feel.
  • Reduces line swelling = more consistent braking.
• Brands: Galfer, Streamline, HEL Performance

High-Friction Brake Pads

• What It Does: Upgrades braking surface material.
• Benefits:
  • Increases braking force.
  • Works better under heat and in muddy conditions.
• Brands: EBC, Galfer, DP Brakes

Oversized Rotors

• What It Does: Larger brake discs with better heat dispersion.
• Benefits:
  • Improved stopping power and fade resistance.
• Brands: Streamline, Braking USA

 

6. Drivetrain Upgrades

 Clutch Kits

• What It Does: Replaces friction plates, springs, or adds stiffer components.
• Benefits:
  • Handles increased power from engine mods.
  • Provides more precise engagement and durability.
• Brands: Barnett, Hinson, EBC

 

Sprockets & Regearing

• What It Does: Changes gear ratios.
• Benefits:
  • Tailors power delivery for torque (larger rear sprocket) or top speed (smaller rear).
  • Essential for adjusting to terrain type.
• Brands: Renthal, JT Sprockets, Sunstar

O-Ring / X-Ring Chains

• What It Does: Uses sealed links to prevent dirt/water damage.
• Benefits:
  • Significantly longer chain life.
  • Smoother operation with less maintenance.
• Brands: DID, RK, Renthal

 

7. Electrical System

 Performance CDI Boxes

• What It Does: Alters ignition timing and/or rev limit.
• Benefits:
  • Unlocks extra RPM and custom timing for better power delivery.
  • Works well with other engine mods.
• Brands: Vito’s, Procom, Ricky Stator

 

High-Output Coils & Spark Plugs

• What It Does: Improves ignition spark intensity.
• Benefits:
  • More reliable ignition.
  • Slight improvement in throttle crispness and starting.
• Brands: NGK, Vito’s, Ricky Stator

 

8. Controls, Frame & Ergonomics

 Aftermarket Seat / Covers

• What It Does: Adds grip or padding.
• Benefits:
  • More comfort and better rider stability.
• Brands: Quad Tech, Factory Effex, Attack Graphics

 

Steering Stem Upgrades

• What It Does: Anti-vibration or extended stems for taller riders.
• Benefits:
  • Improves rider ergonomics and comfort.
  • Reduces fatigue and increases control.
• Brands: Lonestar Racing, Houser Racing

 

Handlebars

• What It Does: Stronger, better geometry bars.
• Benefits:
  • Increased control and durability.
  • Custom rise and sweep for rider preference.
• Brands: Pro Taper, Renthal, Tag Metals

 

Nerf Bars, Heel Guards

• What It Does: Adds foot protection and prevents slip-through.
• Benefits:
  • Boosts rider safety, especially in racing or rough terrain.
• Brands: AC Racing, DG Performance, Tusk

 

Skid Plates & Guards

• What It Does: Protects undercarriage and engine cases.
• Benefits:
  • Prevents damage from rocks, stumps, and impacts.
• Brands: PRM ATV, Ricochet Off-Road, Tusk

 

9. Lighting & Visual Mods

 LED Lighting Kits

• What It Does: Replaces halogen bulbs or adds light bars.
• Benefits:
  • Brighter, more efficient lights with less power draw.
  • Increased visibility for night riding.
• Brands: Rigid Industries, Baja Designs, Nilight

 

Graphics Kits

• What It Does: Custom vinyl wraps and decals.
• Benefits:
  • Personalizes your quad and protects plastic from scratches.
• Brands: Attack Graphics, Factory Effex, Decal Works

The Yamaha Blaster 200 Has A Motorcycle DNA

When creating this amazing ATV, Yamaha just took an engine from one of their dirt bikes (the DT200) and adapted it to fit into an ATV frame. Smart move! Because of this, the Blaster was so snappy, and has that motorcycle-like feel that made it super fun on trails.

The engine itself is amazingly simple and anyone with a bit of mechanical skills can handle it. This is an air-cooled, single-cylinder, reed-valve induction technology, that had been proven reliable for decades. No water pump to fail, no radiator to puncture. Just fins to dissipate heat and a fan to keep air moving when you’re crawling along.

Over its 18-year run, Yamaha didn’t mess with success much. The biggest change came in 2003 when they finally replaced the so-so rear drum brake with a much better disc brake. Other than that and some fresh graphics packages over the years, the Blaster stayed true to its original design.

I think that consistency is part of what built such a strong following. When a design stays basically the same for 18 years, enthusiasts get to know every nut and bolt. The community created around the Blaster 200, has a knowledge base which becomes incredibly deep with time. There’s literally no problem you can run into with a Blaster that someone hasn’t already solved and documented online.

How It Rides

The Blaster isn’t the ATV you’d pick for mudding or racing motocross (at least not stock), but for trail riding? Absolute gold. At just over 300 pounds wet, it’s light enough to flick around tight corners and nimble enough to weave through trees.

The first thing that hits you when riding a Blaster is how connected you feel to the machine. There’s a raw experience when you ride, because you have no automatic transmission smoothing things out, no power steering, nothing electronic that affects your input as a driver. You twist the throttle, it responds. You squeeze the clutch, you feel the plates engage. You can feel a unique experience when you ride, in a way that modern quads don’t deliver.

The suspension travel is just 8 inches, and could handle small jumps and bumpy terrain without beating you up too badly at the end of the day. It wasn’t plush by any means, but it got the job done. I remember hitting a small bump and I jump having all 4 wheels in the air, and I felt the perfect balance of the machine in the air with nose slightly up, ready to land on the downslope. Pure joy!

Top speed? Most riders saw around 55-60 mph on flat ground with a stock machine. Not too shabby for an “entry-level” quad! But speed wasn’t really what the Blaster was about. It was about that mid-range punch that would lift the front wheels over obstacles or pop a wheelie with just a quick clutch dump.

The coolest thing about riding a Blaster is how it responds to your body position. Lean into a turn, and it carves. Stand up for a jump, and it follows your lead. It’s the kind of responsive machine that actually teaches you to be a better rider.

One memory that sticks with me is taking a 200 Blaster through a tight wooded trail that zigzagged between pine trees. A buddy on a much bigger, more powerful quad kept having to back up and reposition for the tight turns. The little Blaster? It just flicked between the trees like it was dancing on the trail. Size isn’t everything in the ATV world!

The Sound and Smell of Two-Stroke Freedom

You can’t talk about the Blaster without mentioning that distinctive two-stroke sound and smell. That sound like “ring-ding-ding” is practically music to enthusiasts’ ears.

And the smell for sure I can’t forget! The premix oil burning through the engine creates a smell that’s like cologne to off-road riders. Even today, when I catch a trace of two-stroke exhaust at a riding area, I immediately look around to see if someone’s running a Blaster or another two-stroke machine, just from pure nostalgia.

Why People Still Hunt For These Things

I’ve owned four ATVs over the years, and I still miss the Blaster I had in college. Here’s why these machines still sell like hotcakes on the used market:

1. They’re cheap to buy and fix. Even today, you can find a decent used Blaster for under $2,000. Parts are everywhere, and fixing one is like working on a big Lego set—simple and straightforward. I once rebuilt my entire top end with basic hand tools in my apartment parking lot. Try doing that with a modern fuel-injected quad!
2. They’re perfect for customizing. Want more power? Slap on a big bore kit. Need better handling? Wider A-arms and upgraded shocks transform the machine. The aftermarket support is still massive. During the Blaster’s heyday, companies like Duncan Racing, Pro Circuit, and FMF made fortunes selling hop-up parts for these machines. Many of those parts are still available new or can be found used.
3. Pure, raw fun. Modern ATVs have gotten so big, heavy, and complicated. The Blaster is a throwback to when riding was just about the rush—that two-stroke buzz, the smell of premix oil, and the satisfaction of nailing a perfect shift. It’s like comparing a vintage muscle car to a modern sports car with traction control—sometimes the less refined experience is actually more engaging.
4. They’re tough as nails. I’ve seen Blasters that have been crashed, flipped, submerged, and abused beyond belief—and they keep running. The steel frame and simple mechanics mean these things can take a beating. My college roommate once rode his Blaster into a creek that was way deeper than expected. The thing was completely underwater for a good 30 seconds. We pulled it out, drained the airbox, changed the oil, and it fired right up the next day. Try that with something fuel-injected!
5. It’s a social thing. Owning a Blaster is like being part of a club. Pull up to any riding area with one, and you’ll inevitably have someone come over to share their own Blaster story. “I had one just like that in high school” or “My first quad was a Blaster” are phrases I’ve heard countless times.

The Blaster Community: A Brotherhood of the Buzz

The Blaster has created one of the most dedicated communities in powersports. From specialized forums to Facebook groups with thousands of members, the Blaster tribe is still going strong.

What’s really cool is how this community spans generations. You’ll see 50-year-old guys who bought Blasters when they first came out riding alongside teenagers who just scored a used one as their first ATV. The knowledge transfer between these generations keeps the machines alive and the culture vibrant.

I met some of my best riding buddies through Blaster forums. There’s something about working through mechanical challenges together that builds lasting friendships. One time, a guy I’d only known online drove two hours to bring me a carb float when mine cracked during a weekend riding trip. That’s the kind of community this little machine has created.

Known Problems (Every Rose Has Its Thorn)

Look, the Blaster isn’t perfect. If you’re shopping for one, here’s what to watch for:

• Pre-2003 models have weak rear brakes. That drum brake setup just doesn’t cut it in mud or water. Many owners upgrade to the later disc brake. I learned this the hard way coming down a steep hill in the rain once. Let’s just say I was very grateful for a conveniently placed bush that stopped me!
• Crank seals love to leak. When they do, the machine gets hard to start and runs poorly. It’s a common fix but something to check on used machines. The telltale sign is air leaking into the crankcase, which makes the engine run lean and hot. You’ll notice poor throttle response and maybe even some weird popping through the carb.
• The chain tensioner is flimsy. A broken tensioner can lead to a derailed chain, which can damage your engine case. Most riders upgrade this part right away. My buddy ignored this advice and ended up with a chain that chewed halfway through his engine case. Expensive lesson!
• Swingarm bearings wear out. If the back end feels loose and wobbly, suspect these bearings. Easy fix, but worth checking. You’ll notice this most when cornering hard—the back end will feel like it’s not following the front.
• Plastic gets brittle with age. Those blue, white, or black fenders that looked so good in 1996 have been baking in the sun for decades now. They crack easily, especially around the mounting holes. Keep an eye out for this when inspecting a used machine.
• Electrical gremlins. The stator and CDI units can fail over time, leading to no-spark conditions. While the electrical system is simple by modern standards, finding the source of an electrical issue can still be frustrating.

What to Look For When Buying

When I’m looking at a used Blaster, here’s my checklist:

• Does it start easy? A healthy Blaster should fire up within 3-5 kicks when warm, maybe 5-10 when cold. If the owner is struggling to start it, suspect compression issues or air leaks.
• Straight frame? Look for creases or welds—signs of crash repairs. Pay special attention to the front frame cradle where the bumper mounts and the rear grab bar area—both common damage points.
• Oil leaks? Check around the engine base and cylinder. Some seepage is normal for an old two-stroke, but dripping means work is needed.
• Transmission? All six gears should shift cleanly. The Blaster’s transmission is generally bulletproof, but worn shift forks can cause it to pop out of gear under load.
• Suspension? Push down on the seat—it should rebound smoothly without clunking. Grab the handlebars and rock the machine side to side to check for worn A-arm bushings.
• Compression test? If possible, bring a compression gauge. A healthy Blaster should have at least 125-150 psi of compression. Low numbers could mean a worn top end.

A cherry Blaster from the 2003-2006 era (with the disc brake) in excellent shape might fetch $2,500 or more. A beat-up project bike could be had for $500-800. Most decent runners fall somewhere in between.

I once scored a decent 1999 model for $1,200 that needed nothing but fresh tires and a good cleaning. Six months later, after adding some basic mods, I sold it for $1,800 to fund another project. These machines hold their value remarkably well.

Mods That Make a Difference

If you snag yourself a Blaster, here are the upgrades that give you the most bang for your buck:

• Exhaust pipe and silencer: An FMF or Pro Circuit pipe wakes up the engine and sounds amazing. My old Toomey pipe added at least 3-4 horsepower and made the powerband hit even harder.
• Bigger carb: The stock carb is restrictive. A 28-34mm Mikuni opens things up. Just be prepared to re-jet it properly. I ran a 30mm Mikuni on my last Blaster, and the difference in throttle response was night and day.
• Wider A-arms: For more stability, especially at speed or in sand. Most riders go with a +2″ or +3″ setup, which widens the front end for better cornering stability. Combined with proper wheel spacers in the rear, this gives the Blaster a much more planted feel.
• Better shocks: The stock suspension is meh. Upgraded shocks transform the ride. I ran a set of Works Performance shocks on my last Blaster, and it felt like a completely different machine—soaking up bumps that would have sent me flying before.
• Air filter setup: A good quality foam filter (like Twin Air or UNI) and an outerwear pre-filter sock will protect your engine while allowing it to breathe better. In dusty conditions, this is especially important.
• Nerf bars with heel guards: These protect both the machine and your feet. Nothing worse than catching your boot under the rear tire!

For pre-2003 models, that rear disc brake conversion is almost mandatory if you ride in wet conditions. The stock drum brake fades badly when wet and can be downright dangerous on steep descents.

The Joy of Wrenching

One of the best parts of Blaster ownership is how approachable they are mechanically. This was my first “real” ATV, and also the first vehicle I really learned to work on myself.

I’ll never forget the pride I felt the first time I tore down my Blaster’s top end, honed the cylinder, installed new rings, and had it run perfectly afterward. That sense of accomplishment is something that’s harder to come by with newer, more complex machines.

The repair manual for these things is basically written in plain English. No specialized diagnostic computers needed, no dealer-only tools required. Just basic wrenches, screwdrivers, and maybe a torque wrench for critical fasteners.

Finding Parts and Help

One reason the Blaster lives on is the crazy-strong community around it. When my power valve seized last summer, I had three different people offering advice within an hour of posting on BlasterForum.com.

For parts, I usually hit up:

• Rocky Mountain ATV/MC (great for new OEM and aftermarket parts)
• Dennis Kirk (good prices on maintenance items)
• eBay (great for used stuff and NOS parts)
• Facebook Marketplace (you’d be surprised what people have stashed in garages)
• Local salvage yards (I once found a complete parts machine for $200)

For tech help, nothing beats the Blaster-specific forums and Facebook groups. These folks have solved every problem ten times over. Some of the old-timers on these forums have forgotten more about Blasters than most of us will ever know. They’re usually super willing to help newbies, too—unlike some more elitist vehicle communities.

How It Stacks Up Against the Competition

The Blaster had plenty of competition in its day, mainly from four-stroke machines like:

• Honda TRX250EX/Recon: More practical with their four-stroke engines and reverse gear, but not as thrilling to ride. The Honda was like the reliable Toyota Camry of ATVs—it would run forever with minimal maintenance, but it lacked that adrenaline factor the Blaster delivered.
• Kawasaki Mojave 250: A solid four-stroke competitor that was smoother but lacked that two-stroke punch. The Mojave had better low-end torque, making it better for technical trail riding, but it couldn’t match the Blaster’s top-end rush.
• Suzuki Quadsport 230: Another dependable four-stroke that was easier to live with but didn’t have the Blaster’s aggressive character. The Suzuki was particularly good for beginners due to its predictable power delivery.

ATV Comparison Table: Yamaha, Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki

Feature	Yamaha Blaster 200	Honda TRX 250EX	Honda Recon 250	Kawasaki Mojave 250	Suzuki Quadsport 230
Engine	195cc, air-cooled, 2-stroke, single-cylinder		229cc, air-cooled, 4-stroke, single-cylinder	249cc, air-cooled, 4-stroke, single-cylinder	229cc, air-cooled, 4-stroke, single-cylinder
Bore x Stroke	66.0 x 57.0 mm		68.5 x 62.2 mm	72.0 x 61.2 mm	66.0 x 66.0 mm
Fuel System	26mm Mikuni Carburetor		24mm Carburetor	Keihin Carburetor	Mikuni Carburetor
Compression Ratio	6.6:1		9.2:1	11.0:1	9.0:1
Ignition	CDI		CDI	CDI	CDI
Starting System	Kick		Electric	Kick	Kick/Electric
Transmission	6-speed manual		5-speed manual	5-speed manual	5-speed manual
Final Drive	Chain		Shaft	Chain	Chain
Front Suspension	Independent double wishbone		Independent double-wishbone	Independent, dual A-arms	Independent, double A-arm
Front Travel	5.7 inches		5.9 inches	7.3 inches	6.7 inches
Rear Suspension	Swingarm		Swingarm	Swingarm	Swingarm
Rear Travel	7.1 inches		5.7 inches	7.9 inches	7.1 inches
Front Brakes	Dual hydraulic disc		Dual hydraulic disc	Dual hydraulic disc	Dual hydraulic disc
Rear Brakes	Hydraulic disc		Sealed mechanical drum	Single hydraulic disc	Single hydraulic disc
Front Tires	21×7-10		22×7-10	22×8-10	22×7-10
Rear Tires	20×10-9		22×10-9	22×10-10	22×10-9
Wheelbase	43.3 inches		44.3 inches	47.2 inches	43.3 inches
Length	66.1 inches		68.5 inches	70.7 inches	65.6 inches
Width	43.3 inches		41.8 inches	46.1 inches	42.5 inches
Height	39.2 inches		39.0 inches	41.7 inches	39.8 inches
Seat Height	29.3 inches		31.4 inches	29.5 inches	29.7 inches
Ground Clearance	4.1 inches		6.0 inches	4.9 inches	5.3 inches
Dry Weight	324 lbs		353 lbs	337 lbs	373 lbs
Fuel Capacity	2.4 gallons		2.5 gallons	2.4 gallons	2.6 gallons
Reverse Gear	No		Yes	No	No

The thing is, none of these machines inspired the same passion as the Blaster. They were good ATVs, but the Blaster was an experience—like comparing a reliable sedan to a feisty sports car.

I’ve ridden all of these machines, and while each has its strengths, none of them made me smile as big as the Blaster did. There’s something about that two-stroke hit that just feels special.

The End of an Era

When emissions regulations started tightening in the early 2000s, we all knew the Blaster’s days were numbered. Two-stroke engines, for all their fun and simplicity, are dirtier than four-strokes. By 2006, Yamaha made the difficult decision to end Blaster production.

Its replacement, the Raptor 250, was a fine machine in its own right—a nimble four-stroke with modern features. But for many riders, it just didn’t capture the magic of the Blaster. Something was lost when that distinctive two-stroke buzz went away.

I remember the day I heard production was ending. A bunch of us at the local riding spot were talking about it like we’d lost a friend. Several riders I know rushed out to buy the last new ones on dealer floors, knowing they were getting something special that wouldn’t come around again.

Why It’s Still a Legend

The Yamaha Blaster 200 isn’t the fastest, the biggest, or the most practical ATV ever made. But it might just be the most fun per dollar you can have on four wheels. It’s a perfect balance of simplicity, affordability, performance, and attitude.

For thousands of riders (myself included), the Blaster was our first “real” ATV—the machine that taught us to shift gears, slide corners, and fix our own stuff when it broke. That’s why, almost 20 years after the last one rolled off the assembly line, the Blaster community is still going strong.

I still see kids at riding areas lighting up when they first experience that two-stroke power hit. The looks on their faces are the same as mine was back in the ’90s—pure, unadulterated joy. Some things never change.

Is it perfect? No. Is it practical? Not really. But is it an absolute blast to ride? You bet your muddy boots it is.

If you’ve never thrown a leg over one of these rowdy little machines, you’re missing out on a piece of ATV history. And if you have? Well, you’re probably already smiling just thinking about it.

Yamaha Blaster 200 – Q & A

ENGINE & PERFORMANCE

SUSPENSION & HANDLING

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

MAINTENANCE & TROUBLESHOOTING